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  Images: Zegna; Amiri; Emporio Armani; Willy Chavarria 

 

 

 

 [Style](/index%2Ephp/style) 

 



 /  29 January 2025  

#  The Menswear Memo: 8 Things To Know Now  


 January is menswear month. First there’s Pitti in Florence, then there are fashion weeks in Paris and Milan, where the industry’s biggest names reveal the collections that will define seasons to come. We’ve watched this month’s shows, downloaded the relevant stylistic intel from them, and put together your cheat sheet for AW25…  
 

 



 

  Images: Zegna; Amiri; Emporio Armani; Willy Chavarria 

 

 

 

All products on this page have been selected by our editorial team, however we may make commission on some products.

 



 

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/6W06w_a-w--LHxc1c86xvlisXOo=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-look-textured-monochrome-maison-margiela.jpg)

 

 ](https://www.maisonmargiela.com/en-gb/) 

Maison Margiela

 

 

 

 

 

## THE LOOK: Textured Monochrome

Monochrome outfits dominated Milan and Paris fashion weeks (except for [Prada](https://www.prada.com/gb/en.html) who went off-piste). Among the many brands experimenting with textures and layering to bring life to the concept, classic fashion houses like [Hermès](https://www.hermes.com/uk/en/), [Dunhill](https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=etT1jgERWYw&mid=46427&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dunhill.com%2Fgb&LSNSUBSITE=LSNSUBSITE), [Dolce &amp; Gabbana](https://www.dolcegabbana.com/en-gb/), [Zegna](https://www.zegna.com/uk-en/) and [Armani](https://www.armani.com/en-gb/) sent down full outfits of earthy or neutral browns, beiges, greens, blacks and purples. This is going to be a key trend next winter.

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/kEgTbEpnEv4-e-Tp_fxRzk-kxpI=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-look-textured-monochrome-dunhill-willy-chavarria.jpg)

 

 ](https://willychavarria.com/?srsltid=AfmBOorM_KSJZ1jKacF_Ow-x_l722UAOYpyYmYgrbvJ8GjZ7b5vOfE3v) 

Dunhill; Willy Chavarria

 

 

 

 

 

 

## THE COLOUR: Blue

A vibrant splash of red was a recurring motif that mimicked womenswear trends, but we also saw sharp blue being used liberally and effectively. [Giorgio Armani](https://www.armani.com/en-gb/) deployed an ice blue light to highlight his new Neve ski collection, but it was the use of an iris-piercing blue on one of the jackets and knits that arrested attention.

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/PLzCJPs-Ldej5FPfGAHQ02K4Bvc=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-look-the-colour-giogio-armani.jpg)

 

 ](https://www.armani.com/en-gb/) 

Giorgio Armani

 

 

 

 

## THE FINISHING TOUCH: Collar Play

Designers displayed clever collar designs, played with layering, and used interesting materials like nubuck brown leather. The brand that could set off a trend beyond fashion week is Dunhill. The way it styled collars by forcing them up through a thick turtleneck was refreshing, stylish and easily taken up.

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/vgEB3rwE6PHtxJemeB6yK37fvLQ=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-collar-play-dunhill.jpg)

 

 ](https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=etT1jgERWYw&mid=46427&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dunhill.com%2Fgb&LSNSUBSITE=LSNSUBSITE) 

Dunhill; Lemaire; Our Legacy

 

 

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/6Zf8JMQjyqowQ6XL9MFgJ_irzTY=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-collar-play-lemaire.jpg)

 

 ](https://www.lemaire.fr/) 

 

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/4WHof9wrM9EKm1evP-aKmWRobHY=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-collar-play-our-legacy.jpg)

 

 ](https://www.ourlegacy.com/) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

## THE FABRIC: Velvet

Consider us velvet sceptics no longer. An emphatic velvet display helped Paris debutant Willy Chavarria make waves, and there was a heavy dose of stylish pieces from Giorgio and Emporio Armani, so we’re now fans.

 

## THE ACCESSORY: Hidden Ties

Ties are back (as our man at Pitti [noted](https://slman.com/style/fashion/menswear-fashion-trends)) and there’s now a microtrend within the trend to note. In Milan and Paris, brands like [Paul Smith](https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=etT1jgERWYw&mid=39528&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paulsmith.com%2Fuk&LSNSUBSITE=LSNSUBSITE) and [Emporio Armani](https://www.armani.com/en-gb/emporio-armani/experience/) used ties and shirts made from the same pattern or tone to merge into one another.

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/BAW8ECBhZRb_Rivrz2OsY9yw8S0=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-accessory-emporio-armani-selected-homme.jpg)

 

 ](https://www.selected.com/en-gb/hommelanding.html) 

Emporio Armani; Selected Homme

 

 

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/WrTmYOVcLiJipxC6fcA9zXK2w10=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-trend-4-velvet-will-chavarria.jpg)

 

 ](https://willychavarria.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoq6e3V_v6xJ3iKaWSpNB9OGnuVFnrgnjAT4InQyYOunhyF0GZzo) 

Willy Chavarria

 

 

 

 

 

 

## THE COLLABORATION: Paul Smith x Barbour

A pair of British institutions teased something exciting in Paris. The latest in [Barbour’s](https://www.barbour.com/uk/) series of smart collabs has got menswear aficionados buzzing. Expect its traditional waxed jackets to gain zany linings and some multi-colour stripe detailing as it teams up with Paul Smith in autumn.

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/C138l5lmjqShXtOGb9SH2gV4-Bw=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-collab-paul-smith-x-barbour.jpg)

 

 ](https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=etT1jgERWYw&mid=39528&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paulsmith.com%2Fuk%2Fdiscover%2Fcollaborations%2Fpaul-smith-loves-barbour&LSNSUBSITE=LSNSUBSITE) 

Paul Smith x Barbour

 

 

 

 

## THE STANDOUT SHOW – PARIS: Amiri

[Amiri](https://amiri.com/) paid sensuous homage to its hometown of LA. Steeped in 70s nostalgia, its collection featured velvet tailoring, vintage leather jackets and a colour palette of burgundies, browns and yellows. This all hit at just the right frequency – insouciant, sexy and in the driving seat.

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/CVmDHoIKURgPZm0CcJMdDLs9pEw=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-standout-show-ami-paris-1.jpg)

 

 ](https://amiri.com/) 

Amiri

 

 

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/lcAuSepKRjryvOwEtD_3zXTgphI=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-standout-show-ami-paris-2.jpg)

 

 ](https://amiri.com/) 

 

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/kICuvKWiopjdFKiHW-J0sCwdPHE=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-standout-show-ami-paris-3.jpg)

 

 ](https://amiri.com/) 

 

 

 

 

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/X9zVMoKOk_V_fQPbsjxDrnWLmIU=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-standout-show-milan-emporio-armani-1.jpg)

 

 ](https://www.armani.com/en-gb/emporio-armani/experience/) 

Emporio Armani

 

 

 

 

 

## THE STANDOUT SHOW – MILAN: Emporio Armani

The theme of the show was ‘seduction’. But there was no pick-up artist-style behaviour, just a masterclass in atmosphere and visual gluttony. The huge variety of looks included a muted, multi-colour hiking collection, an almost Victorian velvet tailoring section (with pocket watch chains), luxuriously lax Armani tailoring, animal prints, furs, extra belts, and some suave vintage leather jackets. Truly a feast for the senses.

 

 [ ![](https://media.slman.com/dQMre28wGnSPYn8ebrJ94zyKlFc=/800x0/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fslman.com%2Fsites%2Fslman%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F01%2Fslman-paris-milan-fashion-week-the-standout-show-milan-emporio-armani-small-landscape.jpg)

 

 ](https://www.armani.com/en-gb/emporio-armani/experience/) 

Emporio Armani

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All products on this page have been selected by our editorial team, however we may make commission on some products.

 

DISCLAIMER: We endeavour to always credit the correct original source of every image we use. If you think a credit may be incorrect, please contact us at <info@slman.com>.