

A Pro’s Guide To Buying Vintage Menswear
Curious about vintage menswear but don’t know where to start? Eddie Wailes – photographer, stylist and vintage curator – is your perfect guide. As well as answering all our questions, he’s pulled together some of his favourite pieces out there right now…
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How do you define vintage, Eddie?
Vintage is 20 years old or more.
How did you get into vintage?
The thing that pushed me away from contemporary clothing was going to Tokyo when I was 18. I went for nearly a month, and I met some vintage suppliers. I discovered an amazing scene for old Comme Des Garçons, Visvim and other unique brands. I invested a lot out there, and I felt my style change. It was my gateway to vintage.
Where are some of the best places outside of London to shop vintage?
Tokyo is the best for variety, but now it's a lot more commercial and expensive. Otherwise, I buy vintage in south-west France, where charity shops like Emmaus are really good – you can get French chore jackets for €5.
Okay, let's talk about London. Where’s the best area to shop for vintage in London?
I did a project for Camden Market, and there's this shop called Time Tunnel Vintage under the arches and a few sellers around there that specialise in 70s stuff or military pieces. You can spend a long time there. Retrouvé Vintage on Wilton Way in London Fields is a cool spot. Also, Alfies Antique Market on Church Street. It has everything from furniture to costume and menswear.
Does vintage fashion go through trends?
I wouldn't categorise them as trends, but you can see how people in certain scenes follow vintage styles. I've been wearing flared jeans for five years, and now you can see some of the lads in Soho are in 70s jackets, flared jeans and cowboy boots.
Where do you go for affordable vintage menswear?
Vinted. I shop there every day for projects in styling, but also for personal wear. I've got some great jackets from Vinted.
And for mid-range?
Go to Vestiaire because you get a variety of sellers from Europe.
What about high end?
I recommend checking out Aro Archive for Issey Miyake, Helmut Lang, Margiela, Raf Simons, Jean Paul Gaultier, Prada, C. P. Company and Stone Island. Levisons stocks a hand-picked selection of rare and vintage clothing, encompassing workwear, military, tailoring and knitwear for both men and women. Finally, Files London is one of London's best vintage designer hotspots. It’s known for sourcing and selling rarities from Comme Des Garçons and '90s Chanel.
Do you prefer shopping online or in store?
I prefer the experience of buying online because of the gamble. I like the shot in the dark for whether or not it fits or what it looks like in person. When the experience is really good, then I like to shop in store. But overall, I shop online.
Okay, what are some red flags shoppers should look out for?
If the price is too low for something luxury, it's often too good to be true. Also, don’t get ripped off. If you go down to Portobello Market and you find Burberry trench coats selling for £700, don't do that. My advice? Be as resourceful as you can.
What's the biggest recent shift in vintage shopping?
The biggest shift has been more people getting involved. I really like that. As someone that's always bought vintage and sold vintage, more people seeing it as an answer to not consuming things they don't need, to wearing stuff for longer, and to having more of a personal connection with their clothes, that’s something I really like.
Do you have a favourite single piece?
I have an early 80s Purple Label Ralph Lauren white lambskin jacket based on a World War Two motorcycle jacket. It's a long, belted trench coat in this chestnut/chocolate brown. It's just the most insane thing to wear.
Where did you get it from?
There was a woman in my hometown who specialised in vintage womenswear, but I said, ‘If you get offered menswear, let me know.’ She got a call one day from a lady who’d inherited menswear pieces that had been in storage for 30 years, and passed the client onto me. I arrived at a basement full of the most insane things. I ended up buying two jackets and a belt. But, after I left, I thought, ‘I need to buy all of this.’ This is too special. I didn't have the best knowledge of Purple Label, old Ralph, old Hermès or Brioni as it wasn't in my category, but when the prices were discussed, I just had to buy all 100 of them. It was during Covid, so I had a bit of spare money.
Who's the coolest person working in vintage menswear right now?
Patrick Wright. He's a stylist but also works for a store called Patron of The New stocking Celine, Dior and upmarket brands. He probably has one of the best menswear wardrobes in terms of mixing vintage with new pieces. He's just got a great vibe, style, and he's doing some great collaborative work with a jewellery brand in New York. Whenever he comes to London, I'm just like, ‘Pat, where the hell did you get those Levi's? They’re just the most insane things.’ So I plug him not because he's big or anything. He's just a cool character who has cool people around him.
Any final bit of advice for people getting into vintage?
I’ve been shopping vintage for ten years, and my advice is as simple as buying the things you like. However, the real joy in buying vintage starts when you start choosing things you wouldn't usually wear. One piece can inherently change your style by mixing it with everything else in your wardrobe. It has the power to shape the direction of your wardrobe in the future.
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