How To Nail Casual Tailoring This Summer
Once an oxymoron, casual tailoring has become a summer axiom for stylish men. Its looser fits and lighter fabrics allow us all to breathe, but there’s a next level of nonchalance that only comes with looking good too. We asked Robbi Hicks, Head of Creative at Moss and menswear YouTuber Jim Chapman how they keep their cool in warmer weather…
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Let’s start with your general tips for achieving nonchalance in tailoring…
Robbi: When you want to feel comfortable but look as stylish as you can, there are two things to consider: fit and fabric. Picking fabrics like linen, cotton, seersucker and lighter-weight wool blends (tropical wools) goes a long way. In terms of fit, a looser trouser makes life easier as you move through the summer. Our Italian suit comes with a working cuff, which costs a little bit more, but a beautiful suit with a couple of buttons undone, no tie and a button-down shirt makes everything feel slightly softer. In short, successful summer tailoring is about trying to soften smart and elevate casual, so you end up somewhere genuinely in the middle.
Jim: Opt for a sports coat over a suit jacket. The differences between the two are subtle, but can really change the aesthetic. Suit jackets tend to have more structure, particularly around the shoulder, and they will have flap or jetted pockets – both of which suggest business or formal attire. A sports coat is slightly more relaxed because gentlemen used to wear them while partaking in sports. Nobody is suggesting you rock up to a HYROX competition in one, but the softer shoulder and patch pockets give a more nonchalant vibe overall. They also allow for more versatility – you can wear one with trousers, jeans or chinos, or you could swap the shirt for a tee or polo. The choice is yours.
For trousers, does pleating make a difference?
Jim: Yes, but not so much that I’d throw out my flat-fronts and rush to buy a load of pleats. A pleat is my go-to (and is having a moment right now) because it maintains the elegance of tailoring while giving a bit more room to move. However, I would always prioritise silhouette and function over following a trend.
Robbi: In summer, the small things are noticed more because you're often wearing far less. This is true for pleating, fit, fabric or styling details. These become the subtle cues that show you've got it together.
Talk to us about shirts…
Robbi: Look first at the classic linen shirt, which is probably one of the most versatile pieces for the summer. It can be worn under a suit, or on its own with a jumper tossed over your shoulders for the slightly chillier evenings.
Jim: Think about drape and softness. A crisp poplin shirt might undermine the relaxed vibe of your overall look. Instead, try a softer cotton, linen or merino. I tend to swerve a cutaway collar and go for a soft point, or better yet a button-down. A button-down with the buttons unfastened says, ‘I know what the rules are, and I know how to bend them.’
Do watches suit this style of dressing?
Jim: I’m choosing to accessorise less and less. The rule for me is very much ‘less is more’ when it comes to tailoring, especially if you aim for that nonchalant aesthetic. However, watches are an accessory that I can get behind. They serve a function and are beautiful. First, work to your budget, and then keep it subtle. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen men in gorgeous, effortless suits, only to have a large, loud, mixed-metal, bright-faced timepiece on their wrist. For me, a watch is supposed to complement your style and way of life, not be the centrepiece.
We’re seeing people styling ties with casual outfits in a high-low mash-up. Have you noticed this too?
Jim: Oh, absolutely! I have a pretty simple strategy here: I’ll usually swap in the tie and swap out either the jacket or trousers. A tie, trousers and suede jacket are something I turn to a lot, as is a tie and sports coat with jeans.
Do you size up for a relaxed fit in summer? Or do something else?
Robbi: I would always size up in a linen shirt, and you may also do the same on a denim shirt, but it doesn't necessarily need to happen. I think it depends on what context you're wearing. If I knew that I was going to wear a linen shirt with a suit, I would wear it in the normal size, but if I’m wearing it with denim or trousers, I probably would size up.
And does that apply to a suit?
Robbi: I don't think so. It's more about how it was designed at the start. If you want that more fashion-forward suit, then lean into the relaxed fit. Our Italian block is all about making everything feel slightly softer, so we've removed a lot from the shoulder so that the drape is much easier and doesn't feel quite as stiff. That doesn't necessarily mean you need to size up to feel relaxed and casual. It just feels more elegant and looks more relaxed when you're wearing it. That's the key.
Jim: Never get a suit that doesn’t fit! There is a difference between oversized or relaxed and just too big. The only thing you can’t change with a suit is the shoulders, and upping the size can simply make you look lost in too much fabric.
How does canvassing factor into your summer suiting?
Jim: Canvassing adds structure. That may be what you’re looking for in a business environment, but if you want that soft, effortless tailoring look, I’d go for a half-canvassed option. It’ll give you a nice drape off the shoulder, but won’t be too rigid. There is also the uncanvassed option, which can work for slightly heavier fabrics, but be aware of the line between soft and sloppy.
And what are the tones you’re looking for?
Jim: Earthy tones are your best friend. While you can make summer tailoring work with greys, be mindful of the fabric you go for because, if it’s not tactile enough, you could easily look like you’re late for a board meeting.
Robbi: Everyone loves tonal dressing. It's very difficult to get it wrong. There's just got to be enough of a gap between the two colours that it doesn’t look like you've made a bad choice, thinking they were the same colour. I think black as a summer colour is interesting. Done in the right fabric and styled in the right way, this is something we've seen success on.
Where do you stand on trainers and suits?
Robbi: With a beautifully clean trainer, like a pair of Common Projects, it can be done. But I'd be more inclined to try a sandal or a mule – or a softer Belgian loafer, something a little bit more lived in, something a little bit more worn in. If you’re wearing a relaxed-fit suit, you could also do an espadrille.
Jim: I’ve never been a fan of suits with trainers. I think you can get a nonchalant look with loafers or derbies. For me, it’s about how your trousers fall over your shoe. I’m a fan of a cleaner single break (or no break at all, sometimes) so you don’t look slouchy.
Caps and tailoring. Does it work?
Robbi: Everyone's doing it since brands like Aimé Leon Dore and F. E. Castleberry brought it back. I think it works. It helps to slightly casualise the tailoring and make it feel slightly more relaxed. And it's an easy thing to do, and it adds a bit of personality. Drake's also does it exceptionally well. As a brand at large, I’d say they've got the balance right between tailoring and casual wear.
Jim: I love this look and wish I could pull it off, but unfortunately I like it more than it likes me. I would advise caution, as you don’t want to look like you’re trying too hard, and this is becoming a clichéd ‘menswear’ look.
Last one – are there any other brands you think are nailing casual tailoring at the moment?
Jim: Natalino is my one to watch. It has a beautiful aesthetic. If you have a slightly larger budget, nobody does it better than Drake’s.
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