Andrew McLay, J Sheekey

Brown crab meat has the most flavour, so it’s best to try and incorporate it when you’re cooking. The shells shouldn’t be forgotten either as they add delicious flavour to soups and sauces. Always buy from somewhere that sells them when they’re still alive, so you’re guaranteeing they’re as fresh as possible. In London, I’d recommend See Woo in Chinatown as they have a great selection of live shellfish, including English cock crabs. It’s always better, and more satisfying, to pick them yourself, but admittedly this does create quite a lot of mess and is very time-consuming if it’s your first go.