A Chef’s Guide To Eating & Drinking In Edinburgh
EAT
L'Escargot Bleu: I've always liked places that have a real sense of themselves, and L'Escargot Bleu has that. It is generous, unpretentious and rooted in proper French cooking, but it also feels completely part of Edinburgh. Fred is a master of product and sourcing, and that comes through in the simplicity and quality of the food. The wine list is exceptional too. It is the sort of restaurant I go back to because it is about great ingredients, warmth and consistency rather than trying too hard.
Yamato: Yamato is one of my favourite places for Japanese food in the city. I love the precision and restraint of the cooking, especially the sushi, and the fact that quality is allowed to speak for itself. As a chef, that no-fuss approach really appeals to me. It is consistently solid and always delicious.
Dogstar: Dogstar has a really good energy. It is the kind of modern neighbourhood place Edinburgh needs more of. The cooking has confidence, but it is still relaxed and fun. I like restaurants where you can tell the people behind them have a point of view without making the guest work too hard. At the heart of it, it is just excellent food, brilliant cocktails and genuine hospitality.
Eòrna: Eòrna is tiny and very personal, which is a big part of why I like it. Brian is a fantastic chef – years of experience in Michelin-starred restaurants have helped him forge a style that is completely his own. Glen brings warmth and humour to the front of house, and I love his approach to wine. He really knows his stuff but takes all the pomp out of it, so you feel at ease and in safe hands. The chef-and-sommelier format means the food, wine and service all feel genuinely connected.
Eleanore: I like how relaxed Eleanore feels without losing any ambition. It is small, personal and has the confidence of a proper neighbourhood restaurant, with the focus staying on good cooking and warm hospitality rather than formality.
Mirin: Mirin has loads of personality. I like that the cooking draws on Asian flavours in a very free way. It can be playful and precise at the same time, while the whole place still feels easy and fun.
Sotto: Sotto gets the balance right between serious Italian food and wine and a relaxed neighbourhood feel. It is the sort of place where you can have a proper meal and a great bottle of wine without it ever feeling too formal.
The Palmerston:The Palmerston has a generosity to it that I really like. The food feels driven by ingredients and good taste rather than unnecessary complication, and it is the kind of restaurant that feels equally comfortable for lunch or dinner.
Montrose: Montrose feels considered without being stiff. The food and wine are taken seriously, but it still has the warmth and ease of a neighbourhood restaurant, which is a combination I always respond to.
Heron: Heron is one of the places helping push Edinburgh dining forward. I respect the ambition, the focus on Scottish produce, and the fact that the cooking feels modern and personal rather than overly formal.
DRINK
Hey Palu: Hey Palu is somewhere I go because it is just good fun and the drinks are taken seriously without the place ever feeling stuffy. There is a strong Italian identity, great cocktails and a lot of personality in the room. The service is second to none. All the bartenders really look after you, and the drinks selection is unreal. It feels distinctive rather than designed by committee.
The Last Word Saloon: I like that this place feels tucked away and genuinely comfortable, more like a real bar than somewhere trying to make a statement. The cocktails and whisky are expertly sourced and made, but it is still somewhere you can settle in and relax.
Panda & Sons: Panda & Sons has been consistently inventive for years. I like the theatre and creativity around it, but underneath that the drinks are expertly considered, which is why it has lasted and still feels relevant.
Spry: Spry is one of my favourite places for wine because it is knowledgeable without ever feeling preachy. There are always interesting bottles to discover, the atmosphere is relaxed, and it is an easy place to spend a couple of hours.
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SLEEP
Gleneagles Townhouse: For somewhere right in the centre, Gleneagles Townhouse is hard to beat. It has the polish you would expect from Gleneagles but feels younger and more relaxed. The bedrooms have a real sense of character rather than feeling like standard luxury hotel rooms. The location on St Andrew Square makes it an easy base for the city.
The Balmoral: The Balmoral is still one of the great Edinburgh hotels, and probably the most instantly recognisable. I like that it feels truly connected to the city, from the building itself to the views across the Old Town and the Castle. If someone wants the more classic Edinburgh experience with a very high level of service, it is an obvious choice.
100 Princes Street: 100 Princes Street is much smaller and more intimate. The interiors are very Scottish without feeling predictable, and being directly opposite the castle gives it one of the best locations in town. It feels more like staying in a very polished private house than a conventional hotel.
Fingal: Fingal is a great option if you want something completely different. It is a former Northern Lighthouse Board ship that has been turned into a luxury hotel on the waterfront in Leith, so there is a real sense of place and history to it. It also puts you close to The Shore and gives visitors a reason to experience another part of Edinburgh rather than staying entirely in the centre.
For more on Stuart’s restaurants, visit LylaEdinburgh.co.uk, NotoEdinburgh.co.uk, TipoEdinburgh.co.uk, Vinette.co.uk & VivienEdinburgh.co.uk. For another accommodation option, Lyla has four beautiful bedrooms within the townhouse.
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