Not content with bestriding the west London restaurant scene (Notting Hill’s The Shed, Battersea’s Nutbourne, Rabbit on the Kings Road) the Gladwin boys have struck out for the centre of town. There’s a clue in the name: the brothers’ new Soho opening celebrates all that’s great – and sustainable – about rural Sussex. Ingredients come direct from the family farm and vineyard or handpicked local suppliers. Menu highlights include monkfish carpaccio with aubergine, lemon, chilli and toasted pine nuts and red amaranth; artichoke and potato nests, beetroot tahini, pickled onions, feta and dill oil dust; and pumpkin gnocchi with caramelised quince, sage and tunworth foam, garnished with buckwheat and sorrel. For a more immersive experience, head downstairs to the state-of-the-art kitchen, which hosts a chef’s table for up to 20.
63-64 Frith Street, Soho, W1D 3JW
As a preternaturally gifted chef in the 90s, Tom Aikens became – and remains – the youngest person ever to win two Michelin stars. Menus at his new venture, a 25-cover restaurant in Belgravia, look back nostalgically on a remarkable life. Behind the high concept, there is some very fine dining to be had, with each dish showcasing a single key ingredient or element. You just have to choose whether you want three, six or ten courses, all to be enjoyed in tasteful townhouse surrounds. A cocktail list created by Mr Lyan himself, Ryan Chetiyawardana, can be explored in the ground-floor lounge, which has five seats overlooking a downstairs kitchen. Everyone else eats upstairs at a handful of tables or one of six further kitchen counter seats.
38 Groom Place, Belgravia, SW1X 7BA