3 French Cities, 3 Insider Guides
3 French Cities, 3 Insider Guides

3 French Cities, 3 Insider Guides

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Fancy a non-obvious short-haul break? France might be the answer. From a beer town in the north to a wine capital further south, three places have caught our eye – and all are easily reached by train. We went to some astute insiders for their local tips…
Photography @GAELLELEBOULICAUT
Mondrian, Bordeaux
Mondrian, Bordeaux

@GAELLELEBOULICAUT

BORDEAUX

Hugo Vaysse, concierge at Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes, says…

I love Bordeaux’s natural beauty, thriving restaurant scene and, of course, incredible wine. For typical French food, go to Chez Dupont, a much-loved local restaurant with rooms. It showcases the best local ingredients and wines, and has a charming atmosphere. Le Mirabelle is another great French brasserie. It has a relaxed, cosy atmosphere and the dishes are generous and crafted with unwavering passion. It’s a great example of simple but beautiful French food. 

One of my favourite restaurants is El Nacional. It pays homage to the traditional Buenos Aires bodegón, specialising in meat dishes. There’s also an exceptional wine list, with an emphasis on Argentinian varieties. Franco-Mexican restaurant Tlali is another great choice for incredible, delicate Mexican dishes.

Visiting a wine estate is a no-brainer. Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a hidden gem on the outskirts of the city. The perfect spot for a tasting and tour. 

For brunch, try Bali Bowls on Rue Notre Dame. It serves delicious acaï bowls full of nutritious ingredients – my go-to is the OG Bowl with organic acaï, guarana, banana, granola and fresh fruit. If that’s not your thing, they also do a decent veggie dog. You can’t miss the bakeries in Bordeaux, and Panoche is one of the best. I love the cinnamon rolls.

El Nacional
El Nacional

My favourite neighbourhood is Les Chartrons. It was my childhood stomping ground and it’s such a special area. Wandering through the narrow streets, you'll find an array of boutiques, art galleries and independent stores. The district has become a hub for independent designers and artists; from fashion to home decor, it’s a treasure trove for one-of-a-kind items.

Get a culture fix at the CAPC. In a former warehouse it showcases cutting-edge contemporary art. The contrast of modern art against the historic backdrop of Les Chartrons is a thought-provoking experience. I also love La Cité du Vin, a museum about wine with stunning architecture by XTU architects. The tasting room on the eighth floor has amazing views.

Le Mirabelle
Le Mirabelle
Le Mirabelle
Le Mirabelle

Another must-visit is Darwin Ecosystem. It’s a unique space in a former military barracks, comprising a coworking area, organic stores (including a bakery, chocolate factory and wineshop), a restaurant and a skatepark. It hosts cultural events throughout the year.

For menswear and accessories, check out Do You Speak Français? on Rue Notre Dame. It’s a concept store that also has homewares from French brands. Expect French savoir-faire with a modern touch.

Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes recently opened its doors. We’re close to the city centre in Les Chartrons and in a local landmark – the former Calvet wine cellars. With design and interiors by Philippe Starck, there’s a laid-back vibe that’s great for relaxing after a day of sightseeing or wine tasting. We’re also home to Morimoto Bordeaux, the first European restaurant from Japanese master Masaharu Morimoto, serving Asian dishes with a French spin.

Mondrian, Bordeaux
Mondrian, Bordeaux

@GAELLELEBOULICAUT

LILLE

Henry Richmond, founder of Perito Travel, says…

I love Lille because it’s so close to Belgium, so it has serious Belgian influences where it matters… beer. It’s also easy to reach from London, making it the perfect weekend break. I usually stay at Clarance Hotel in Old Lille which is housed in a former 18th-century mansion. Each room has a different vibe, and the lobby is classical and filled with impressive art. It’s also home to the Michelin-starred La Table, which serves incredible food.

Lille is less about typical French food as many of the restaurants are inspired by Belgian culture. Friterie Meunier is a casual spot where you’ll find the best chips. It also serves croquettes, sandwiches and burgers. Another favourite spot is Bloempot, a Flemish restaurant with inexpensive tasting menus – trust the chef and you’re in for a good meal.

If you’re a sucker for steak frites, go to Restaurant Le Fossille. It has a cool whisky collection with over 100 varieties to choose from (including rare bottles from the 19th century). The collection has even earnt them a spot in the Guinness Book of World Records.

You can’t start the day without a croissant at Boulangerie du Renard. It’s got an excellent selection to choose from each day and there’s usually a queue to prove it. I’m a real sucker for a pain au raisin, and this one is a dream.

Clarance Hôtel
Clarance Hôtel
Clarance Hôtel
Clarance Hôtel

One of my favourite neighbourhoods is Old Lille. You can walk down the cobbled streets and work your way around the many cocktail bars. In fact, Lille has amazing architecture dotted all over the city. Make sure to visit the Palais des Beaux Arts on Place de la Republique, which is the closest thing to the Louvre without the queues. It houses a large collection of classical and Renaissance art. 

Sunday mornings are best spent scouring the markets at Wazemmes. The food market buzzes with local suppliers offering everything from meat and fish to vegetables and baked delicacies. During the summer, it hosts events including La Louche d’Or, a famous soup festival.

LYON

David Doughty, CEO at Admiral Jet says…

Lyon has so much to offer, from interesting architecture to incredible restaurants. It’s the third largest city in France, but you could easily pack the highlights into a weekend. I always stay at Villa Maïa which has thoughtfully designed rooms that overlook the Saône river. There’s a spa, with numerous indoor pools, hot tubs and a hammam, and three cool restaurants: a fine-dining outlet, a bistro and a rooftop spot.

One of my favourite restaurants is Agastache, a cool upmarket bistro. Its five-course dinners are a great example of modern French cooking. For something quick, visit L'Annex Ravigote for an epic sandwich – think roast beef with beetroot ketchup and pickles, or white ham from Ferme de Clavisy with basil-infused butter. It also serves dishes like dahl and chunky soups, best mopped up with freshy baked-in-house brioche rolls.

L' Annex Ravigote
L' Annex Ravigote
Agastache
Agastache

The Monkey Club makes excellent cocktails. Its an atmospheric spot which also serves classy finger food. Expect opulent interiors, zingy cocktails and a decent whisky menu. There’s always a buzzy vibe here at the weekend.

If you’re interested in the city’s medieval architecture, start a walking tour at Vieux Lyon, the largest Renaissance district. Tourists stop here to take photos of landmarks in the old town, like the cathedral, and walk along cobbled streets that overlook the river. Don’t miss the Croix-Rousse market which sells an abundance of produce on Tuesday to Saturday mornings. The stalls capture the vibe of a traditional village.

Book a walking tour of the city to learn about its rich history. I’d also recommend a boat tour along the river – it’s a nice way to spend the afternoon during the summer months. 

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