Fed by Made

This reservation-only restaurant is run by friends who used to host pop-ups in Melbourne before they moved back to Bali to open their first bricks-and-mortar spot. Fed serves six-course set menus, which change biweekly and take inspiration from restaurants all over the world, including Planque and Mangal 2 in London. Their approach is a take on that kind of modern cooking with Indonesian-specific ingredients – expect dishes like lemongrass sausages, pork chops with green sambal and raw fish with kecombrang torch ginger, plates like snake fruit crumble for pudding. The team also has an excellent natural wine list with some locally produced low-intervention wines. Plus, it’s great value for money: the six-course menu costs 380,000 rupiah, which is less than £20. It’s one of the best eating experiences I’ve had on the island.

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Dapur Bali Mula

Head to the island's northern coast, where Chef Jero, a local priest, leads a one-of-a-kind kitchen, offering special menus on a pay-by-donation basis. Each dish takes shape over a wood-fired clay stove, a testament to Chef Jero's skill and dedication. Embracing traditional methods and local ingredients, his creations capture the essence of the region with dishes infused with palm wine, coconut and mango. You can even stay on site to take in uninterrupted views of the coastline and watch dolphins over the morning sunrise.

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Bhineka Djaja (Kopi Bali)

Step into history at Bhineka Djaja, Bali's iconic coffeeshop, established in 1935 during Dutch colonisation. Specialising in authentic Balinese coffee (known for its floral acidity), enjoy your cup alongside a unique mix of patrons, from newspaper-reading elders to motorbike groups and students.

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Nasi Ikan Bakar Manna

Warungs are humble street-side restaurants and cafés that you’ll find all over Indonesia. This family-run one is in Kuta, to the far south of the island, and specialises in grilled fish with corn rice, which comes with its own-recipe sambal manna – a take on a spicy Indonesian relish that’s been passed down for generations. Nasi Ikan is run by a couple and their daughter, Kyla, who is also an artist and an illustrator. She designed the menus and curated the interiors, which is all flashy colours and graphic table mats. You’ll also often find her working the tables. As Kyla puts it, the warung is a place filled with love and tradition. It’s very rare in Bali to find a place that’s so unpretentiously stunning – in a contemporary sense – while maintaining warmth and a genuine family atmosphere that makes it feel like you’re walking into someone’s dining room.

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Lawar Marlin Bu Devi

Lawar Marlin Bu Devi is a modest establishment that specialises in the Balinese kingfish ceviche. It’s an unbelievable dish in which tender kingfish is transformed into ceviche and served with a fragrant rice platter and spiced aromatic salads. Flavours you won’t find elsewhere.