
3 Trips That Make The Most Of Scotland
THE FISHING TRIP
Al Peakes is a fly fishing guide and co-founder of TwinPeakes. As well as giving casting lessons, he leads trips around Scotland and is an ambassador for the Atlantic Salmon Trust and the River Dee Trust, working to enhance the fish stocks that have made Scotland one of the world’s great fishing destinations. He told SLMan what he’d lay on for a few mates wanting to tap into a rich tradition…
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The river Dee rises in the Cairngorms and flows through Aberdeenshire to reach the North Sea at Aberdeen. It’s one of the most famous salmon fishing rivers in the world – it’s not sluggish, it’s got a steep gradient and lots of streamy water that suits fly fishing really well – and one of the prettiest. There are enough beats that anyone who books a little bit in advance can usually get one, and because the Dee rises and falls quickly, the Scottish weather doesn’t disrupt too many days each season. Historically, that season began with an early spring run in February and March, but that has changed a bit – there are more fish in July now. Whenever you go, though, there are excellent accommodation options.
Highlights
Let’s start with that accommodation. The classic, family run Kildrummy Inn has its own private beat on the Don. In May, a lot of fish are caught close to Braemar – where you’ll find the Fife Arms (more on that below) – and the nearby Balmoral beats also come into their own at this time. The Marcliffe, right on the Dee close to Aberdeen, Banchory Lodge and Tor-Na-Coille are comfortable options with a strong sense of place. A bigger group could take over the 12 bedrooms of Candacraig.
Wherever you choose to base yourself, trips tend to begin with a spey casting masterclass that might last 45 minutes. Once you’ve learnt the movements, you can put flies on your line and head to the pools where the salmon will be lying – there’s usually a guide for every two guests.
Scotland’s fly fishermen traditionally take an hour’s break for lunch – to give the pools a rest as much as themselves. As well as serving food, TwinPeakes will set up a Yeti bar for you to enjoy a beer or glass of wine at your fishing spot. On the longest days of the year, there’s a chance for an evening session after an early dinner – the final 45 minutes of daylight can be a great time to catch salmon.
Three days of fishing is often the optimal amount for beginners. More experienced groups could combine salmon fishing on the Dee with a couple of days of wild trout fishing on the nearby river Don. Salmon season opens on 1st February and finishes on 15th October; April to July is prime time. Wild trout season runs from 15th March to 6th October.
Al says...
“When you’re fishing, you’re in nature, slowing down and being quiet. Your senses are heightened. You see everything. Otters have swum past me, I’ve watched kingfishers hunting, and I’ve had osprey dive down and take a fish, and a herd of deer cross the river in the evening light. If you’ve got a problem, the solution is to go fishing. And if you’ve got a bigger problem, go for a longer trip.
“You can choose what you want to get out of fishing. It’s a sport you can do until you’re old, but you can also turn it into a wilderness adventure. Walk the whole beat between spots, have lunch under a tree, find a great little ninja hole – climb down a tree, get in the water and try to get a cast in from there.
“Fishing can be hard to get into if you don’t have a friend or family member to introduce you, but really it’s for everyone. Our grandad taught my brother and I to fish when we were growing up. We set up TwinPeakes to open the door for others. Jump on a flight to Aberdeen, grab a hire car, and we’ll lend you all the gear you need and take you out. At the end of the trip, once you’ve been guided for a few days, you should be ready to go fishing on your own.”
For more info & inspiration, head to TwinPeakesFlyfishing.com
THE GOLF TRIP
Andrew Seward is head ghillie at the Fife Arms hotel. Like any great concierge, he knows the best ways to entertain all his guests, including those who want to swing their clubs in the home of golf. Here’s what he’d lay on for a small group looking for a low-stress, high-reward few days away…
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The Cairngorms National Park is a place of spectacular natural beauty, but it’s also within a couple of hours’ drive of Edinburgh, Inverness and Aberdeen airports – and within its wild surrounds, there are beautifully kept courses, brilliant restaurants and an easy way to get around them all.
Highlights
This trip is built around four Bs. Braemar is an historic course that doesn’t just stand out for being higher above sea level than any other in the UK. Set in a dramatic mountainous landscape, it’s a friendly club with a relaxed clubhouse where you’ll soon be mingling with regulars. The course might be high, but it isn’t particularly long. It’s challenging, though – the second hole is well known locally for its trickiness. Once you’ve signed your card, there are some great casual food options nearby, including the classically styled Flying Stag within the Fife Arms, trad local Farquharson’s across the road, or the Mews bar if beer’s the order of the day.
The scenery is a big part of Ballater’s appeal too. Founded in the 19th century, this heathland courses makes clever use of the river Dee to keep players on the straight and narrow. It too has outstanding post-game meal options nearby: the Fish Shop just earned a Bib Gourmand from Michelin for its outstanding work with local fish and shellfish; or there’s Lochnagar Indian Brasserie for an excellent curry.
A bit further away, Blairgowrie Golf Club is less well known than perhaps it should be, which means you’re almost guaranteed a tee time at one of its three courses. Both of its 18 holers are PGA standard – designed by Alister Mackenzie, the man behind the Augusta National, the Rosemount is the standout. Mackenzie’s genius is also behind its nine-hole Wee Course.
The final B is a potential bonus for Fife Arms guests. Within the Balmoral estate, which has been a royal hideaway ever since Queen Victoria bought it in the 19th century, there’s an unusual 18-tee, 9-hole parkland golf course. It’s reserved for royals in September, but the hotel can arrange tee times in other months. While you’re close to Crathie, Tarmachan Café is worth dropping into for a morning hit of coffee and modern architecture.
Andrew Says…
“Scotland’s the home of golf and that’s a big part of its appeal, but it’s also an unpressured place to get to grips with the game. There are so many courses, and not a lot of pomp and circumstance, despite the history. Those courses can be so different too – you can be at a parkland course, and find a links course 15 minutes away, then go on to somewhere in the mountains like Braemar. Stay with us at the Fife, and we’ve got a fleet of Land Rovers to get you around easily.
“The shoulder seasons might be the best times to play golf in Scotland. You’re not going to be rubbing shoulders with too many people in April or May, but I think autumn might be real gem. You can hear stags roaring in the distance, the fishing’s also good in September, and there’s something about a whisky by the fire at that time of year. Golf, fishing and whisky are the holy trinity up here, and in autumn they’re all at their best.”
On Saturday 17th May and Sunday 18th May this year, the Fife Arms is hosting the Kilted Open, which includes an opportunity to play Balmoral’s Royal Golf Course. Find out more here.
THE ROAD TRIP
Yuri Janssen has a job title to aspire to: head of adventure. Any time a guest at the legendary Gleneagles hotel in Perthshire wants to really see Scotland, they are sent to him. We asked him what he would lay on for someone looking to hit the open road north of the border…
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Easily reached by plane, train or indeed automobile, Edinburgh makes a great starting line for a Scottish road trip. With this itinerary, you’ll have time to see a bit of the capital before striking out north for the Highlands and islands.
Highlights
Start in Edinburgh, perhaps with a night at Gleneagles Townhouse. The city has lots of interesting dining options – try The Little Chartroom for lunch or head to Heron in Leith for dinner.
Head west out of town and you can reach the original Gleneagles in around an hour. You might find yourself wanting to stay a while on this iconic country estate. It’s a place to pursue classic Scottish activities of fishing and golf – it has its own century-old King’s championship course – as well as horse riding and shooting.
If you’re keen to keep moving, Gleneagles has 4x4s that can take you to remote Carroglen, or you can put the new made-in-Scotland Munro electric off-roader through its paces on the estate’s own purpose-built course.
Two hours north of Gleneagles, deep within the rugged Cairngorms National Park, your next destination is Gairnshiel. Close to the royal Balmoral estate, its main lodge is a great place for a bigger group to hole up, but it also has four-person Inverenzie Cottage in its grounds. The local Royal Lochnagar whisky distillery deserves a tour.
Finally, set your sat nav for Borve Lodge Estate. To reach its remote part of the Western Isles in a day, you might need to set an alarm too, but once you’re there, the rewards are rich. The estate sits on the far side of the Isle of Harris, but it encompasses Taransay – the UK’s largest uninhabited island. Spend a day on Taransay with a private chef, who will cook for you using local seafood and venison, before you return to sleep in either the Broch – an Iron Age-style tower – or the Rock House on Harris.
Yuri Says...
“One holiday in Scotland will barely scratch the surface. This is a small country of breathtaking landscapes with a kaleidoscope of wildlife and people with a fascinating history. Head to the Western Isles, though, and you will discover the UK’s last stronghold of unspoilt wilderness.”
To see everything Gleneagles has to offer, visit Gleneagles.com
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