The format offers room for restaurants to play too. While others head into more experimental territory, the old guard of Bentley’s, Scott’s, Sweetings, Langan’s Brasserie and Wiltons continue to do what they do best. “We have specially trained shuckers on the bar who know their bivalves like the backs of their hands,” confirms Federico Fiorillo, head shucker at Bentley's, where quality and freshness remain the twin pillars of everything they do. Every oyster must taste clean and bright, just like they always have. The consumer just has to choose the origin of their oyster – whether they want one that’s plump and creamy or lean and minerally – and how to take it. Bentley’s owner Richard Corrigan always stays classic with just a squeeze of lemon and a twist of black pepper.

But for anyone who finds a raw oyster is intimidating, there are now alternatives. “Grilling them, dressing them or pairing them with unexpected flavours allows people to experience them in a more relaxed way,” says Madina. “Our seasonal bloody mary oyster is especially popular and pairs perfectly with a Guinness or our Michelada.” Noisy Oyster also does an oyster nugget with parmesan mayo, paprika and Oscietra black caviar. Alex Webb of Wimbledon’s Orion is another proponent of cooked oysters: “Our chefs can layer flavours – heat, acid, fat and texture – in ways raw oysters don’t always allow.” At Borough’s Pyro, you might find oyster saganaki, toasted bread and fennel; or you could try oysters topped with champagne, sour cream, green strawberry and dulse at Kitchen Table in Fitzrovia. For this year’s British Pie Week, the Mayfair Chippy even served a steak and oyster pie topped with a deep-fried oyster.

The takeaway for London’s diners is clear: no excuses. Order the oysters.