Part of the regenerative medicine family, polynucleotides have become increasingly popular over the last couple of years. Skincare buffs will already be familiar with the ‘salmon sperm’ injectable treatment, touted for its ability to boost skin quality. But there’s more where that came from – as it turns out, injecting highly purified DNA fragments (mostly derived from salmon or trout) into your scalp has the potential to create a healthier environment for hair growth. “They work by increasing hydration and circulation, and supporting tissue repair around the hair follicle,” explains Dr Daniel Aimone Cat, aesthetic practitioner at Thérapie Clinic. “In turn, this helps strengthen weakened follicles, improve hair quality and reduce excessive shedding over time.” 

According to Daniel, polynucleotides are most effective for strengthening and maintaining existing hair, so they tend to work best for people in the earlier stages of hair thinning, particularly where the follicles are still active. As for the process, it lasts between 20 and 30 minutes, and involves a series of injections, focusing on the areas of the scalp most affected by thinning or loss. “Most clients find it very tolerable with minimal discomfort,” says Daniel, “and there’s little-to-no downtime although you may experience some mild redness, tenderness or swelling for a few hours afterwards.” For best results, a course of four to eight sessions over four to six months is usually recommended. “Many notice reduced shedding first, followed by improvements in hair texture, thickness and overall scalp health. Over time, hair can appear fuller, healthier and stronger, especially when combined with a consistent haircare routine or a concurrent medical treatment plan. As with any regenerative treatment, results vary depending on the individual and the stage of hair loss.”

Less scary than it sounds, microneedling is a professional treatment that involves creating tiny, shallow punctures in the scalp using ultra-fine needles with the aim of triggering the body’s natural healing response. “This can increase collagen production, blood flow and growth factor activity, all of which helps improve the scalp environment for hair growth,” explains trichologist Ricardo Vila Nova. “At the same time, the micro-channels created by the needles allow active treatments – such as plasma, growth factors, exosomes or other boosting ingredients – to penetrate deeper into the scalp, enhancing their effectiveness and helping stimulate dormant follicles.” 

While many report good results from microneedling, some experts recommend it as an add-on to a wider treatment plan for the best results. “It wouldn’t typically be used as a standalone treatment for male pattern hair loss, but to supplement more established treatments such as minoxidil and finasteride,” says Zoë Passam, senior consultant trichologist at Philip Kingsley. “Also, if improved growth is seen, the treatment would need to be repeated periodically to maintain the effects. As with all hair-loss treatments, the first results may take up to three months to appear.”

Microneedling is minimally invasive, but best avoided if you have a compromised scalp – for instance if it’s affected by eczema or psoriasis. And it’s a treatment best left to the pros. Despite a rise in at-home tools, most experts agree the safest way to reap the benefits is to try microneedling in a clinical setting. “We’re seeing a trend of people overusing at-home devices, rolling their scalps multiple times a week or even daily,” explains Dr Margo Gkini, consultant dermatologist at Hair + Me. “This can cause scalp trauma and doesn’t allow the skin time to heal, potentially triggering inflammation rather than supporting hair growth. Overdoing it does not solve the problem and may even make it worse.”

Arguably skincare’s biggest buzzword right now, exosomes are essentially tiny messenger particles that enhance cellular communication and transport important ingredients. They’ve been gaining popularity as a hair-loss treatment because of a belief that they can activate hair follicle stem cells and encourage the formation of new blood vessels around the follicles. “Exosomes can be used to optimise the scalp environment where the hair grows – this can mean improved blood flow, reduced inflammation and the activation of the regenerative pathways that are needed for hair growth,” explains Dr Yannis Alexandrides, plastic surgeon and founder of 111 Harley St. “By shortening the shedding stage of the hair growth cycle and improving the skin environment of the scalp, it improves the texture and quality of the hair, making it stronger and less prone to breakage. There is always ongoing research in regenerative medicine, however there are numerous studies that demonstrate how effective these treatments can be. To achieve the best results, we always recommend a course of treatment and review the results over a period of time as well as throughout the hair cycles.” 

You may have spotted a new wave of LED-powered helmets and caps designed to support growth and overall scalp health. The idea is that they stimulate hair follicles and encourage them to stay in the active growth phase for longer. One of the most popular on the market is CurrentBody’s version, suitable for both men and women, but particularly geared towards those experiencing thinning and loss in the early-to-moderate stages.

“It’s most effective in areas where hair follicles are still active but may be weakened, rather than in areas of complete hair loss where follicles are no longer functioning,” explains Emily Buckwell, associate communications director at The Beauty Tech Group. “It works by delivering low-level red light energy (620-660nm) directly into the scalp. By improving the environment around the follicles, it promotes thicker, stronger-looking hair over time. It’s a non-invasive, clinically backed approach that’s designed to work in line with the natural hair-growth cycle.”

LED therapy devices are a convenient option for at-home use, but continued use is key. Think of them as a longer-term commitment rather than a quick fix. That being said, with daily use of just 10 minutes, according to Emily, you can typically expect to see visible improvements from around 12 to 16 weeks in the form of initial reduced shedding, followed by improvements in density and overall thickness.

The results appear promising, but again some experts recommend pairing these devices with a medical treatment for the best results. “Low-level light therapy (LLLT) using LED helmets and devices shows statistically significant efficacy for androgenetic alopecia (pattern hair loss) based on multiple randomised controlled trials and meta-analyses,” reports Margo. “What is crucial to clarify is that results are modest and LLLT is not a miracle treatment. It’s also important to note that not all devices are equal – only clinically tested and approved options should be considered.” 

Plant-based serums and other topical treatments have been around for a while, but recent studies suggest the category is evolving. One formula in particular – which combines caffeine with extracellular vesicles derived from centella asiatica (a hero ingredient in Korean skincare) – has attracted attention for its promising clinical results.

“Plant-based formulas can be as powerful as medicated formulas,” suggests Ricardo, “but for greater efficiency, the deeper they reach the skin or scalp, the better. That’s why combining serums with microneedling technology can amplify the effectiveness of the product. It’s also important to mention that different formulas are designed to tackle different concerns. Centella asiatica is a great ingredient, but not a one-size-fits-all solution. Peptides, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are highly regenerative, and can be combined with or enhanced alongside centella asiatica.”