It’s important to manage your expectations with results. Topical eye products won’t completely get rid of dark circles, but can significantly improve their appearance. “In terms of results, hydrating products can improve how the skin looks almost immediately, whereas ingredients such as vitamin C, retinoids and pigment-targeting actives like thiamidol require consistent use over time (between eight and 12 weeks – to see a visible improvement,” says Derrick. “The key is choosing the right ingredients for the underlying cause, and using them consistently rather than expecting a quick fix.” 

SPF 

"Sun protection is key, especially where pigmentation plays a role. The under-eye area is often missed when applying SPF, but UV exposure can worsen dark circles over time. A high-factor SPF used daily, all year round, is essential.” – Derrick 

Vitamin A 

“Vitamin A delivers powerful results without irritating the delicate eye area. It effectively targets the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, discolouration, uneven skin texture and loss of firmness. To avoid irritation you need to introduce actives slowly, starting with twice a week for two weeks, then upping the frequency to every other night. In the evening, you could try our Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye, which contains retinaldehyde to thicken the skin and ceramides to support the barrier.” – Daniel 

“A couple of products I often recommend in my clinic are the RoC Retinol Correxion Eye Cream, which delivers retinol in a way that’s well tolerated around the eyes and helps to smooth fine lines and wrinkles; and the SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex, which not only addresses crepiness and deeper signs of ageing, but also hydrates and improves firmness and elasticity.” – Derrick 

Vitamin C 

“A gentle vitamin C will offer both antioxidant and brightening benefits. Our C-Tetra Eye is a lipid-stable antioxidant serum which works to prevent pigmentation and brighten existing dark spots.” – Daniel  

Niacinamide

“Other brightening ingredients such as niacinamide can help reduce uneven tone over time. Another effective option is thiamidol which works by inhibiting tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in pigment production. A product I recommend often is Eucerin Anti-Pigment Dark Circle Illuminating Eye Care Cream – it’s great for brightening and tackling pigmentation-related dark circles.” – Derrick 

Caffeine 

“If dark circles are more vascular in nature, caffeine can be helpful. It temporarily reduces puffiness and can make underlying vessels appear less prominent, which can improve the overall look of the area.” – Derrick 

Hyaluronic Acid & Glycerin 

“Drinking enough water supports general skin health, but topical hydration is more impactful for the under-eye area. While hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin won’t treat the cause of dark circles, they help the under-eye area look smoother and plumper, which can soften the appearance of darkness and fine lines.” – Derrick 

Not all dark circles are the same, which is why a one-size-fits-all approach rarely works. “If it’s shadowing from hollowing, that’s a structural issue,” explains Dr Richard Devine, aesthetic doctor and founder of Devine Clinic. “This will only improve by reducing the hollowing with filler to project the tissue and soften the groove. For pigmentation, gentle lasers tend to give the best results. The skin here is extremely delicate, so treatment should be performed in carefully controlled settings by an experienced practitioner. Results are gradual rather than instant, usually requiring multiple sessions, alongside diligent sun protection to help prevent pigmentation from returning.”  

Another option is bio-stimulatory injectables, such as polynucleotides. “This treatment is excellent for improving skin quality, thickness and brightness over time, and is ideal for patients wanting subtle, regenerative results. For the most natural outcome, a combination approach including in-clinic treatments and tailored skincare products will work best,” advises Dr Hayder Ria, aesthetic doctor and founder of Harley Street Dermal. If volume loss is your main concern, know that it’s not always the tear trough itself that needs treatment. “In many cases, supporting areas such as the mid-cheek need to be addressed first to create lift and improve the appearance of the under-eye naturally. The ideal candidate is someone with true hollowing rather than puffiness, good skin quality, and anatomy that suits subtle structural support. Results should look rested and refreshed, not filled. How long it lasts varies, but typically sits between nine and 18 months.”