Maria’s Market Café, Borough Market
Maria’s Market Cafe is a south London institution, named after its founder Maria Moruzzi, whose parents opened Borough Café in 1961. After many decades of frying bacon, brewing tea and serving everyone from market porters to Hollywood film stars, Maria has retired, but her legacy lives on. Now under new ownership, the café – in Three Crown Square in Borough Market – is still the place to go for its well-loved bubble and squeak, stuffed bacon sandwiches and expertly made hot drinks.
9 Stoney Street, Borough, SE1 9AA
E Pellicci, Bethnal Green
This Grade II-listed café is an ornate, old-school spot for an excellent fry-up. Priamo Pellicci began working in the cafe in 1900 and it was here that his wife Elide brought up their seven children, while running the café below after her husband’s death in 1931. Elide is the E. Pellicci in the café’s name, and her portrait remains downstairs. Choose between four set cooked breakfasts or go rogue with American-style pancakes or classic ham, egg and chips.
332 Bethnal Green Road, Bethnal Green, E2 0AG
Andrew’s Restaurant, Holborn
Andrew’s has been serving locals for more than 50 years. TV presenters Jon Snow, Krishnan Guru-Murthy and Tom Bradby are all fans, and all signed a petition to prevent developers from shutting down this classic café a few years back. And thank god they did. Inside, there are well-worn chairs, wipe-down tables and photos of Routemaster buses, alongside a vast wall-to-wall blackboard menu above the counter, featuring fry-ups (including a fried slice), omelettes, mixed grills and a selection of proper homecooked dishes such as liver and bacon. Andrew’s is occasionally open in the evening, when it can be hired out for pop-ups – celeb chefs such as Giorgio Locatelli and Nigella Lawson have hosted parties here.
59 Gray’s Inn Road, Holborn, WC1X 8TL
Terry’s Café, London Bridge
Terry’s dad was a chef in the army and his mum was a pastry cook, so he was always going to make a name for himself in food. Born and raised in south London during WWII, at age 17 Terry got a job at Smithfield meat market. After a long career in butchery, he decided it was time for a change. In 1982 he opened what is now Terry’s Café, cooking hearty fare using produce from Smithfield and Borough markets. Today, the traditional café is run by his son, Austin, and continues to serve up ‘The Blowout’ (two eggs, bacon, Cumberland sausage, bubble and squeak and tomatoes) and ‘The Hamlet’ (Cumberland sausage, egg, bacon, black pudding, mushrooms and beans).
158 Great Suffolk Street, Borough, SE1 1PE