How To Eat Well In London Today
Image: One Club Row
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How To Eat Well In London Today

The London restaurant scene fizzes with new openings and ideas. Our three experts have eaten and drunk their way through the good and bad so you don’t have to. All you have to do is claim their insights as your own. To start, they’ve given us four rules for eating well in 2025. Between mouthfuls, they’ve also highlighted half a dozen hotspots that deserve the hype – and, for dessert, how about their unfiltered thoughts on the very latest micro-trends?
Image: One Club Row
@TheParkLondon

Relish The Retro

Pink prawns, paper doilies, banana splits – all staples at a 1980s dinner party, and now creeping back onto menus around the capital. Mount St. Restaurant has just launched a Retro menu celebrating British dinner party classics – think melon ball cocktails and chicken vol-au-vents – while Dovetale at 1 Hotel Mayfair has added a knickerbocker glory to its dessert menu, in which a build-your-own trolley is wheeled to your table with an assortment of toppings and sauces. Then there are the truly retro places like St John’s Wood institution Oslo Court, which has barely changed in 50 years – pink tablecloths, napkins and tuxedoed waiters all intact, it’s gone viral repeatedly in recent months.

You might also have noticed desserts like trifle and black forest gateau making a comeback. Jamie Oliver’s place on Catherine St even serves slices of Arctic roll. As food writer Henry Southan observes, “Nostalgia is a big trend in the food world right now. Things that could be a school dinner, but zhuzhed up with better ingredients.” One of his favourite examples? Jeremy King’s latest opening, The Park, where diners custom-build their dream ice-cream sundae. “It was a lot of fun – I had a very camp-looking banana split with sprinkles and whipped cream.” 

Go Easy On Excess

In the food world, the wider ‘quiet luxury’ trend means all-you-can-eat buffets are out (let’s face it, they have been for some time) and so is ordering to excess. “We all need a little escapism, but wasteful, over-the-top dishes seem so out of touch with the state of the world,” says Lyaness founder Ryan Chetiyawardana. “Piling things on, and crass excess is a definite no.” 

“I don’t like the idea of unnecessarily huge food,” adds Henry. “Oversized food is not chic. Like Jenga-block-sized sandwiches. They’re awful. Let’s go for quality over quantity – no one needs a sandwich the size of their head.” 

@TheParkLondon

Trust The Classics

Caught in a trend cycle that spins faster than ever, chefs are leaning into the timeless. “Food trends come and go, don’t they?” says François O'Neill, owner of Maison François in St James's. “But the ones with staying power are rooted in the core principles of good, traditional cooking. Whether that’s a burger, rotisserie chicken or a pastry, they all come from that old-fashioned, well-made school of cooking.” It’s a sentiment echoed by Ryan, who sees a growing appetite for authenticity over noise. “I think we’re going to see more honesty in what’s being presented. There’s a lot of hype around either things that aren’t what they are, or a venue stealing hype for something that’s either historic or very normal. As people become more savvy, they’re more discerning about some of the loudness that abounds.” Whether you’re looking for a perfectly made chicken consommé or a slice of tart au citron, 2025’s smartest diners are choosing quality over gimmicks — and chefs are rising to meet the brief.

Look Beyond Social Media

Content creators like Topjaw – the duo whose interviews with chefs and celebrities on their favourite restaurants in London have earned them over 800k followers on Instagram alone – influence where people eat and spend their money. Then there are individuals like Toby Inskip (@EatingWithTod), whose videos regularly rack up millions of views as people watch him dig into a huge platter of food or, just lately, a slice of a 300kg bluefin tuna. Some within the industry are less than enthusiastic about these types of videos that create “overhyped” spots, as Ryan puts it. “People are starting to realise that genuine recommendations are more valuable than something that’s been hyped on social media.”

Henry agrees that “word of mouth is more powerful”, though he sees the benefit in social media videos. “The average Joe isn’t reading a restaurant review in the paper. There’s a specific group – foodies who enjoy the granular details of a dish – but most of my friends, for example, find restaurant recommendations online. You don’t want to waste time and money, so TikTok and Instagram can help inform your decision on where to go – it’s difficult for a dish to look delicious and taste disgusting. It offers you a glimpse through the window of that restaurant."

@singburi
Dom's Subs
@impeccablesandwiches

Six places to know right now…

One Club Row: “Martinis, burgers, chaos – just the right amount of it.” – Henry

The Dover: “That sleek, sexy NYC look with a menu that matches.” – Henry

AngloThai: “Wonderful Thai food that’s worth the hype.” – Ryan

The Fat Badger: “Great food, live music, and late-night energy in pub form.” – Henry

Singburi“Another great Thai spot that recently relocated to Shoreditch. Check out the newly opened nearby bar Waltz afterwards.” – Ryan

The Devonshire: “Still packed 18 months after opening, and still delivering. The food really is good.” – Henry

And some pro verdicts on the latest micro-trends…

Caviar bumps?

“Yes, if real caviar. The good stuff is expensive, and should be! I’d rather have roe than fake caviar.” – Ryan

“I hate myself every time I do one, but they’re fun. As long as someone else is paying…” – Henry

“Not into it. It’s a handy way to eat it, but not really my vibe.” – François

Crisps as a starter?

“Completely acceptable. So long as they’re high quality, like those expensive Spanish crisps.” – François

“No. They’re a great pub or bar snack, but not a starter.” – Ryan

Dubai chocolate?

“Honestly, no. If I see one more person revealing whatever that green substance is inside, I will spiral out of control.” – Henry

“I’ve never had it, but I’ve also never heard anyone actually speak well of it.” – Ryan

Sandwiches?

“An absolute win. Go to Max’s Sandwich Shop or Dom’s Subs. I’m also happy to see more people making them properly.” – Ryan

“I'm a sandwich aficionado, so I like to think they never left. You can learn a lot about someone from their sandwich choice.” – Henry

“Love it. The sandwich should never have fallen out of favour. It’s a beautiful way of eating.” – François

Mid-strength drinks?

“It’s a highball! They’re great. Talk to your local bartender and they’ll set up the right drink for you.” – Ryan

“No. Either drink or don’t drink – there are lots of non-alcoholic options. I'm more interested in mini martinis, which are everywhere. What a lovely way to start dinner.” – Henry

“I’m into it. Low-alcohol is a good thing—it gives people a chance to flex their drinks options outside the usual suspects.” – François

Waltz Bar

Fries with a martini?

“The best. There’s a reason we made this combo for our Bébé Bob collab.” – Ryan

“That’s us, we do that at Café François. Something greasy with a lovely martini to cut through – it’s a great combo.” – François

“Name a more iconic duo.” – Henry

Protein everything?

“A lot of people on the internet are not experts. Nutrition is a very complicated (and fraught) science – definitely don’t listen to the ‘cool kids’ over doctors. You don’t need to pile protein into everything.” – Ryan

“Big gym bro energy, so definitely not for me.” – Henry

School-dinner comfort food?

“Win! I love the new wave, but I’m glad old-school British dishes are getting the kudos they’ve always deserved.” – Ryan

“It’s a bit of fun, so long as it’s done well.” – Henry

Long lunches?

“I’d like to say yes, but probably not. The whole business lunch arena has shifted. We still get them, but not as much as we’d like. People are more health conscious and aware of how they work these days.” – François

“God, I hope so. London needs to have fun again. I hear stories of raucous lunches at the likes of Langan's and The Wolseley. Let’s bring those back, please.” – Henry

“London’s constant chaos could learn heaps from the wonderful custom of long lunches you find in Madrid, Mexico City, Paris etc.” – Ryan

The Hugo spritz?

“Spritzes are great summer drinks —and they have been for decades, especially in Italy. The Hugo Spritz is a wonderful version of this and should be part of your drinks repertoire, but don’t make it your personality.” – Ryan

“Yes, but anyone who says Aperol spritz doesn’t taste good is wrong.” – Henry

The cottage cheese comeback? 

“Sounds make-believe… Fresh cheese is rad though.” – Ryan

“I find this repulsive. Not something I’ll be engaging with.” – Henry

Follow @MrLyan, @IAmHenrySouthan & visit MaisonFrancois.London

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