My Life In Food: Jesse Burgess, TOPJAW
Images: Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars; Wilson's; Noma
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My Life In Food: Jesse Burgess, TOPJAW

Jesse Burgess is a face you’ll recognise from social media. As co‑founders of TOPJAW, he and his friend Will travel the globe interviewing chefs and celebrities about the best places to eat. When Apple TV and Gordon Ramsay’s production company asked him to front ‘Knife Edge’ – a series following chefs around the world as they chase Michelin stars – it felt like a natural fit. Here, the interviewer becomes the interviewee…
Images: Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars; Wilson's; Noma
@Topjaw

Let’s start at the beginning, Jesse. What’s your earliest food memory?

One of my earliest memories is my grandad giving me peanut brittle when I was about four. My teeth couldn’t handle it, but I remember thinking, this tastes amazing. It was painful, but I really wanted to impress him.

Did you cook with your family when you were younger? 

Yes, to a degree. I used to wake up early at the weekend and make everyone waffles for breakfast in the morning. My mum had brought back this old waffle maker from America. I’d stack them up, clean the kitchen, and wait for people to come down. I was probably an early teen then.

Is there a dish that feels nostalgic – something that reminds you of home? 

Fish and chips. Our local shop in Cambridgeshire was called The Cod Father, which I thought was genius. I also love pies. British cuisine gets knocked, but we’ve got one of the most diverse food scenes on earth – and pies are a big part of that. A good pie with gravy is unbeatable.

What makes a bad pie? 

A soggy one. I’m not a fan of Pukka Pies – refined mint in a pie isn’t for me. I prefer a chunky, hearty pie: steak and ale, steak and Guinness, rabbit, venison, chicken and tarragon… all brilliant. The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room is great. Callum Franklin was the mentor there – the original ‘pie man’ – and now Nokx Majozi is his protégé turned master. She’s incredible. She came to our TOPJAW party the other night and we had a great dance to Craig David.

Natty Can Cook
Harriet Langford

If you could only eat one cuisine for the rest of your life, what would it be? 

Indian. It plays havoc with my insides, but it presses all my buttons. The depth of flavour is phenomenal, and the sheer variety of dishes is endless compared to other cuisines.

If we were ordering an Indian takeaway right now, what would you choose? 

It depends where from, but I love a traditional curry – a madras or a karahi. I also love Goan butter chicken. At one place I go to, they take charcoal from the grill and fold it into the curry sauce. You get all those smoky spices plus actual charcoal folded in – it’s phenomenal.

What do you eat for breakfast?

Doing my job, I consume a lot of food – so one way I try to keep my weight in line is by not eating before midday. Ever. People call it intermittent fasting, but for me it’s more laziness than anything. It’s just a way to reduce calories, because later I’ll be eating a lot. Yesterday, for example, I filmed with Natty Can Cook at his Caribbean fine dining restaurant 2210, then with Mr Nobu himself, and then went to Cinnamon Club for their 25th anniversary. That’s a lot of food in one day. So, I skip mornings. But I love coffee – it’s probably my favourite thing to put in my mouth.

The Cinnamon Club

Do you have an elaborate coffee routine?

I’ve got a good machine – a Sage with a built-in grinder, barista style. I can make a pretty decent latte. I reckon I could get a job as a barista if I backed myself.

What about your fridge – what are some staples you always have at home?

Honestly, it’s a library of condiments. Right now, I’ve got a caramel sriracha, which is serious. I’ve got some Gymkhana cooking sauces. And when I went to Noma in Copenhagen, they gave us a tour of their lab and gifted me things like garam masala in liquid form. I used it in a curry the other day and it was incredible. We always have coconut milk too – making a simple curry is one of the easiest things to do. Sweat onions and peppers with garlic, add curry powder or spices, throw in chicken, then coconut milk. It always works.

How much cooking do you actually get to do at home? 

Not a lot. Most of the time I’m filming during the day, eating at restaurants, and then I’ll go home and not eat dinner. So, I don’t cook a monumental amount, but I do enjoy it when I do.

It must be hard to have a routine with such a busy schedule? 

Exactly. I eat like a wild animal – I’ll feast really big, then not eat for 20 hours, then go again. It probably is better for you, though cavemen weren’t eating butter chicken or fried food. But it all works out – you’ve got to enjoy life.

Noma

Has there been one meal that has topped them all?

Yes – at Ynyshir in Wales with Gareth Ward. It’s a great story: Gareth was living in Newcastle, going through a bad breakup, sleeping on his mate’s sofa – which for a 6’8 man isn’t comfortable. A friend told him about a country hotel in Wales that needed a chef. He asked if they could put him up for the weekend, they said yes, and he took the job. He went from inner-city Newcastle to this sleepy remote part of Wales, and has since turned it into a two-Michelin-star restaurant that deserves three. They serve 31 courses – small plates that keep you entertained – and it turns into a disco every night. They only do four services a week. It’s phenomenal.

Staying in the UK food scene, which city outside London is exciting at the moment?

Manchester always has something going on. It’s not as big as London, but it has similar diversity. There’s a Caribbean place I think about all the time called Rad’s, run by a mum, dad and their son. Bristol is also brilliant. I love Wilson’s. We featured Jan in Knife Edge, which was a full-circle moment for me because I first filmed with him in 2021 with TOPJAW. The place is so underrated – seven courses for £70, which is incredible value. It was one of my favourite meals of all the restaurants we featured. Bristol has so much going on – Wapping Wharf, Redland – and it’s a beautiful city.

Beyond the food, what makes a good restaurant? 

Consistent, relentless, really good service. Restaurants stand the test of time when they have teams who believe in the mission and stick around. At Cinnamon Club’s 25th anniversary last night, so many of the team had been there for 12, 15, even 19 years. That kind of loyalty pays dividends.

We sometimes get criticised at TOPJAW for promoting our friends’ places, but that’s not true. We don’t know these people before we film. Then we experience the hospitality, and of course we want to return. I love businesses that feel like someone’s home – where the owner is present. If they’re never there, it won’t be that good. That’s why pubs with landlords who are always around last longer.

Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars
@ynyshirrestaurant

What’s your drink of choice?

I love beer. We’ve just made our own at Topjaw with 40 Foot Brewery, called Overnight Success, to celebrate 10 years. Otherwise, I love a spicy margarita. It’s swept the world. You can trace it back to Nobu – he was the first to make spicy sushi in California in the 70s, using jalapeño and garlic instead of onion. People loved it, and now we’re all drinking spicy margaritas.

Congratulations on the first decade – that’s a big milestone! 

Thank you. People often don’t realise we’ve been going that long, which is why we called the beer Overnight Success. Journalists sometimes refer to us as that. For seven or eight years it was a passion project, then two or three years ago Will and I decided to go for it properly. So, I understand why people think it’s new.

Okay – who are your dream dinner-party guests, dead or alive? 

I’ll be clichéd and say Anthony Bourdain. I consumed more of his content than anyone’s. I’d love him to chat my ear off. Idris Elba too – when I filmed with him, he suggested we go for a drink afterwards because we got on so well. My knees nearly buckled. And Joanna Lumley – her team actually reached out to us last week about doing something together. I don’t know if it will happen, but maybe…

@ynyshirrestaurant
Wilson's
Wilson's

Finally, Jesse, let’s talk about the new series. What was it like being in the kitchen and seeing the drama unfold? 

When my manager first called me about it, she said, “Don’t get too excited, but Apple TV is making a show with Studio Ramsay. They have exclusive access to Michelin and are following chefs all over the world trying to earn stars.” I thought, holy shit. It felt way bigger than me, but at the same time I felt like I’d been made in a lab to do it.

For the past ten years with TOPJAW, all I’ve done is interview chefs – Gordon Ramsay even called me a “chef slut”, which isn’t inaccurate. I’ve probably interviewed more Michelin-starred chefs than anyone. And I love travelling. My mum was cabin crew when I was growing up, and she’d bring me food back from everywhere – caviar from Russia, champagne from the UAE, Danish pastries, prawns from Greece. I became obsessed with eating around the world.

So Knife Edge was very exciting – it’s what we’ve been doing with Topjaw for years, but with exclusive Michelin access, which has never been given to anyone in 125 years. At the UK ceremony in Glasgow, I had a green room with Clare Smyth and Tom Kerridge, surrounded by the Apple TV crew. I thought, what is life?

Connecting with the chefs was incredible. We filmed in LA, Mexico, Chicago, New York – and you instantly compared one chef with another. The similarities were striking: the drive, the passion. At that level, chefs are some of the most fascinating people you’ll meet. The sacrifices they make, the commitment they show every day – it’s extraordinary.

People ask me what I want the takeaway from the show to be, and I say: more respect for people who choose this life. Just because you spend a lot of money in their restaurant doesn’t mean they’re rich or successful. In fact, the higher up you go, the smaller the margins. Chains make more money than independents. These chefs do it because they don’t want to do anything else. They take on all the risks and adversity and say, this is me.

Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars on Apple TV is available to watch now. Catch up here.

Follow @Topjaw on Instagram.

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