3 Plates & A Playlist: Auguste’s Mike Bagnall
How did you get into cooking, Mike?
I've always loved food and cooking. I watched a lot of daytime cooking shows growing up and needed a job when I was in high school, so I fell right into it. I didn't realise how far it could go, but I never did anything else.
Tell us about the music at Auguste…
Music is such an important part of the space. From the minute we get there in the morning, we're all queuing songs. The vibe in the room and the mood at any given time shift what we play, but everyone contributes, so it can go in loads of different directions. Chef Hamish and I smash through a lot of old psychedelic rock during prep time. Then the front-of-house guys come in and put on something a bit livelier – house, disco – while they set the restaurant. GM Dylan's a big country guy, so you can get ‘Neon Moon’ anywhere from ten to 20 times a night.
Do you often cook with music on?
Yeah, always – unless it's all going wrong. At Auguste we don't have much choice anyway – we're in the dining room right underneath the speakers.
Are music and food the perfect combination?
Depends on the music and the food, I guess. There are also so many amazing restaurants that don't play music. Maybe good music and good food are the perfect combination.
What's the one song that captures the vibe of Auguste?
‘Who Put The Bomb’ by Jaakko Eino Kalevi. It's cool, it's quirky, it's a little sexy.
What does your weekend playlist look like?
It doesn't differ too much from Auguste, to be honest. A lot of dark pop and synth-pop vibes.
Is there a song or album you always turn to when you want to unwind after a busy service?
There are so many. Probably Grace by Jeff Buckley, or some Baxter Dury.
If you had to put one food trend on mute this season, what would it be?
Stop putting things on silver trays to make them edgy.
What’s one food you'd happily have on repeat?
I'm obsessed with raw tuna. It's my guilty pleasure.
And if the Auguste kitchen crew had an anthem, what would it be?
‘Free Bird’ by Lynyrd Skynyrd.
Feeling inspired? Mike’s also shared three great recipes…
Kentish Asparagus, Wild Garlic & Spring Peas
For the asparagus stalks, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil.
Add a large pinch of salt to the water – I use a ratio of 1.5% of the water.
Rinse the asparagus and trim off the tough bottom 2-3cm.
Add the asparagus to the boiling water, and cook until bright green and just tender.
To start the wild garlic emulsion, combine the wild garlic with the oil in a blender, and blend until the mixture reaches 85ºC.
Strain through a fine sieve and cool.
To make the emulsion, blend soy milk, vinegar and salt. Slowly incorporate wild garlic oil into the soy milk until it reaches a mayonnaise-like texture.
Adjust seasoning with lemon juice and salt.
For the peas, remove them from their pods and bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. Add a large pinch of salt to the water (1.5% salt concentration again). Blanch the peas for 2 minutes, then remove. In a bowl, add parsley, salt, pepper, peas, olive oil and lemon juice.
Combine everything together, garnish with wild garlic flowers and serve.
Lamb Arrosticini
Trim any excess fat and silver skin from the lamb shoulder.
Carefully remove the bone from the shoulder and set it aside for making brodo (stock).
Dice the deboned lamb shoulder and additional fat into small, roughly equal-sized pieces.
Place the meat and fat into the ‘Cubo’ (Stainless steel arrosticini device) in alternating layers to distribute the fat evenly, ensuring juicy skewers.
Pack the box completely, pressing gently to flatten the mixture and fill all corners. Place the lid on top.
Make pilot holes with metal pre-skewers, then insert bamboo skewers into each hole.
Use a long, thin blade to cut through the side slits on both sides of the box in all nine positions, forming square-shaped skewers. Lift off the lid and carefully remove the skewers from the box.
Arrange the charcoal in your fornacella. Light it and wait until the coals are white-hot, indicating they’re ready for cooking.
Mix rendered lamb fat, olive oil, crushed garlic, and a pinch of sea salt in a pan. This will enhance flavour and help the skewers brown beautifully.
Generously brush the lamb skewers with the garlic-lamb fat mixture before placing them on the grill.
Place the skewers directly over the hot coals. Turn them regularly to ensure even cooking, and baste occasionally with the garlic-lamb fat mixture for extra juiciness and flavour.
Cook until the skewers are nicely browned and slightly crispy on the edges, while remaining pink and blushing inside.
Remove the skewers from the grill and let them rest briefly before serving, allowing the juices to redistribute.
Vanilla Semifreddo With Gariguette Strawberry
For the vanilla semifreddo, in a food processor, whip egg whites until pale. Add sugar slowly and continue mixing until stiff peaks.
In a separate bowl, whip cream and vanilla until smooth, with a chantilly texture.
Combine the egg whites to cream, one spoon at a time, folding gently to ensure no air is pushed out.
Place in a lined terrine mould and freeze overnight.
For the strawberry syrup, wash and cut strawberries into small pieces and mix with sugar, salt and apple cider vinegar.
Leave to macerate for at least 1 hour at room temperature.
Then, place all the mixture into a cheesecloth inside a sieve and begin squeezing out the liquid. When finished, place the liquid into a squeezy bottle and chill in the fridge.
For the olive oil, take 2 pieces of zest from an orange and a lemon, and add them to the olive oil. Leave at room temperature for at least 3 hours; chill before using.
For plating, cut a thin slice of the semifreddo and place it onto an ice-cold plate. Layer freshly cut Gariguette strawberries on top in a shingle pattern, then dress the strawberries with the syrup and a small drizzle of olive oil.
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