How To Cook With Truffle
Bocca di Lupo founder chef Jacob Kenedy tells us why truffle is his must-use ingredient…
Why is truffle so loved? As with many sexy things, truffle is desired by more than it is loved: either because for them it is unattainable (white truffle is darned expensive), or because it has rarity and economic value – for show-offs. Among its admirers, there are some true lovers of truffle – who value the heady perfume, the way it is a link to a particular terroir, and the fact that it is so seasonally ephemeral.
What is its flavour profile? I’m talking here about white truffle, which is in season between now and the end of December. Black winter truffle, which starts as white ends, is a different and also wonderful beast. White truffles are, to me, the earthbound equivalent of oysters. Eating an oyster is like having your face shoved momentarily into a rockpool. Smelling a truffle is to have your nose shoved deep into the rich humus of an ancient forest floor. The flavour on the tongue is delicate – slightly mushroom-y and garlicky. It is the aroma which is so exceptional, pungent, pervasive and quite frankly erotic.
Got any quick dinner tips using truffle? Take pretty much any bland and rich food, and shave white truffle over it – fried eggs, scrambled eggs, rich egg pasta drenched in butter, or risotto bianco. It is also great over white meats, beef or veal tartare, with anchovies, or even in delicate desserts. Shave it super-thinly over the food at the last minute, but be sure to clean it first.
What’s your favourite way to use it? Copiously.
Have you ever foraged for it? Yes, it is muddy and fun, involving very unprofessional-looking people and very unprofessional-looking dogs, both of which are absolute experts in their field.
FEELING INSPIRED? TRY FOUR OF OUR FAVOURITE TRUFFLE RECIPES...