Huntsman’s Creative Director On Heritage, Style & British Brands Today

The key to great style is dressing for yourself, keeping it simple and paying attention to the details. I’ve always thought British men are really good at putting together outfits in a considered manner. We seem to be naturally adept at finding the perfect balance of memorable – for all the right reasons – and classic. 

When shopping bespoke, make sure your first commission is in an unpatterned cloth. This allows you to understand your true bespoke fit better, without distracting patterns or designs. It also promises the most versatility and longevity for your first suit. Learn how you like to wear it, and make bolder choices when you’re confident.

The beauty of bespoke is individuality. Our team at Huntsman is incredibly skilled in giving informed opinions on style and design, but ultimately it’s down to the client’s individual taste. We’ve created everything from tye-dyed boiler suits for Burning Man to hand-embroidered frock coats for David Bowie, as well as some bold and brilliant tweeds for Eric Clapton.

Linen is king for all warm weather dressing. Choose a more deconstructed fit for your linen. It wears best when it’s not over-worked and over-contrived. Relax into it. The tie is alive and well, which is fantastic news – be sure to invest in some good ones. To elevate a spring combo, don’t be afraid to add some colour.

Before you purchase anything, envisage how it will fit into your wardrobe. If you’re starting from scratch, choose key pieces that can easily be converted to cover all occasions – from casual through to formal and business attire. This is my ethos when I design our seasonal ready-to-wear collections. You’ll find every garment can be mixed and matched.

Every man needs a wide-leg pleated trouser. Opt for one with a deep turn-up that keeps you cool in the summer heat. Pairing it with a wool/cotton-mix short-sleeve polo shirt is a winning look for style as well as comfort.

My personal style rule is less is more. I studied textile weaving at college before beginning an apprenticeship on Savile Row, so I'm drawn to subtly different cloths and fabrics, focusing on things like cut and construction. I’ll never wear anything overtly branded or labelled – or anything too predictable or boring.

Bill Nighy is the epitome of an English gentleman. He has suits made everywhere up and down the Row, but he retains his own style and wears a suit so well. He's also one of the most courteous celebrities I've ever met.

Try not to think too hard with casual clothing. It’s your downtime after all. My weekend wardrobe is mostly all from a brand out of Porto called La Paz – its sourcing of fabrics is so refreshing.

We’re fiercely proud of our heritage at Huntsman. Although today we make all manner of garments for all types of people, our signature house cut remains deeply inspired by our equestrian roots. We actually even have Henry Huntsman’s original riding breeches on display in store – which were only rediscovered in a fancy-dress trunk in South Africa in the late 1980s, and kindly returned to us. 

Many great figures at Huntsman have inspired its core style. Perhaps none are as legendary as the late Colin Hammick. He joined as an apprentice in the 50s, working his way up to the role of head cutter and creative director. He won the prestigious Tailor & Cutter ‘Best Dressed Man of the Year’ award in 1971, as well as defining our iconic one-button house style. 

Our signature cut is the most technically difficult to produce – but one of the most flattering. Hammick took nuances of a classic riding jacket and combined it with elements of a contemporary tuxedo – a single button fastening, high structured armholes, a neat waist and a naturally flared skirt. The result is a flattering silhouette and a garment that’s extremely comfortable to wear. 

There was an old in-joke that Huntsman customers could recognise one another by the cut of their suit. We were once renowned for our closed-door policy (we were accessible by recommendation only) but today we strive to be a house that welcomes and embraces all clients who appreciate bespoke tailoring. 

Strive for authenticity above all else. In a time when the environmental impact of fashion is making headlines, we’re proud to offer a genuine antithesis to fast fashion. Bespoke tailoring is inherently sustainable with garments made by order, to specification and with a quality that guarantees they will last a lifetime – if not longer. 

Continue to be inspired. As a cutter and creative director, my creative vision has evolved over the past few years. Look at the difference in silhouettes from when I started 25 years ago, for example –  jackets were so much longer and fuller through the chest. Our customers are looking after themselves more nowadays and want to show off the rewards of this, so a closer fit is key. 

Embrace modernity. While it's natural to want to shy away from this, it’s the only way to really survive today. While celebrating heritage and staying true to values, it’s important to change for good and embrace innovation too. Huntsman has been contemporary since 1849 and we pride ourselves in being a forward-thinking tailoring house. As our chairman Pierre Lagrange rightly says, “Tradition is simply innovation that has lasted.” 

Lean into versatility. This has been key for men’s wardrobes post-pandemic. Where once people were opting for a two or three-piece suit, now they’re looking for easy-to-match separates and garments in luxury technical fabrics – easy to wear and easy to travel in. 

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