The SLMan Guide To Socks
Image: @MossBros
/

The SLMan Guide To Socks

Socks should never be an afterthought. They’re too complicated for that. For a relatively inconspicuous garment, they can also induce strong feelings. Read our comprehensive guide, though, and you’ll never put a foot wrong again.
Image: @MossBros

All products on this page have been selected by our editorial team, however we may make commission on some products.

Fabrics

Cotton is the most common fabric. That’s because it’s affordable, durable, machine washable and breathable. It also dyes easily and absorbs moisture. Egyptian cotton is higher quality. It yields a softer, even more breathable fabric and the socks last much longer. That’s why it’s more expensive. Silk socks are typically reserved for formal black-tie outfits, to be worn with a black patent loafer or pump shoe. Wool is warm, naturally odour resistant and feels luxurious on the foot. It also brings casual, lived-in texture to an outfit. Bamboo is soft, breathable, moisture-wicking and antibacterial – a nice, soft alternative to cotton that’s just as easy to wash. Alpaca fibres trap warm air and make alpaca socks highly insulating. Alpaca is also great for sensitive skin because it contains no lanolin.

Lengths

Every length has its purpose. With two exceptions. Invisible socks don’t work; they end up bunched up at the bottom of your shoes. Ankle socks are another invention that didn’t need to happen. Put them in a (recycling) bin now. Onto the more valuable lengths. Call them athletic socks or crew socks, you know the ones – usually white, with a striped band near the hem if they’re a vintage style. Unsurprisingly, they are ideal for sport and the gym. But they are also proportionally and conceptually made to be worn with shorts and loafers. Trousermid-length or calf-length socks should be worn when wearing trousers. When you sit down and your trousers rise up your leg, there should ideally be no skin visible. Taller men may need extra length to make sure this doesn’t happen. Knee-length socks are excessive for most forms of dress, but if you want to feel proper for black tie and white tie ceremonies, we wouldn’t stop you.

@PantherellaSocks

Styling Questions

How do you pick your sock colour? 

There are two prevailing wisdoms that appear to be competing. The first is that you should match your socks to your trousers. The second, that you should match your socks to your shoes. They at least agree that there should be some sense of cohesiveness. Another theory for thought: you can colour-match socks to other items in the outfit, such as your jacket or scarf. There’s a long history in menswear of this, and it can bring in a subtle contrasting colour at your ankles while still remaining congruous. In short, either make sure you are co-ordinated or make sure any contrast appears as an intentional pop (e.g. a very neutral outfit and a splash of a red sock). Random and thoughtless is bad. 

White socks and loafers. Really?

Yes, really. Stylish gents have been dabbling with the white sock and loafer for decades now. If you’re wearing them with shorts, go for crew length (don’t go up to the calf) with or without the little vintage stripe. With trousers, try a nice mid-length. You might just look like Paul Newman.  

Are striped socks ever okay?

Tread carefully. They can work on a thick wool or very thick ribbed cotton sock. Wear jeans or cords in order to confirm the casual nature of that choice. We suggest avoiding them in more formal situations. In general, match the vibe of your socks to the vibe of the outfit, i.e., formal outfit, formal socks.

Ribbed or not ribbed?

Ribbed gives a little more style but is more casual. For most situations it’s an excellent choice and there are a number of great brands doing ribbed socks (see below). Plain tends to come off as a little more formal.

How about novelty socks?

Socks are not the correct medium to express your love of Wolverine.

What’s the best sock for tailoring?

Something that isn’t too thick and definitely is not a sports sock. Ribbed socks can work with preppy tailoring, though some will suggest you should stick only to plain socks. 

@PairsSocks; @PantherellaSocks; @MossBros

5 Brands To Know

Uniqlo

The sock wall in each Uniqlo store shouldn’t only be the secret of stylists, it should be used by all style-conscious men. Look out for Colourful 50 Socks: ribbed-cotton socks in 50 colours at £3.90 a pop, with multi-buy deals on offer. Easy.

Pairs

Pairs was founded in 2020 by Alice McFarlane to go beyond the classic cotton sock and reintroduce the world to the joy of other natural-fibre socks. Crafted in alpaca, bamboo, merino, mohair and wool, it’s the feeling of these socks that is unparalleled.

CDLP

If you can afford to buy your basics from CDLP, you should. The Swedish underwear specialist always delivers on its promise of quality. Its socks come in merino wool, bamboo and organic cotton, and in neutral colours like navy, white, black and brown.

MOSS

Think of MOSS’s fine ribbed socks as a more formal older brother to Uniqlo’s Colourful 50 Socks. They’re manufactured with mercerised cotton, chemically treated to increase softness, strength and shine. 

Pantherella

Established in 1937 in the erstwhile sock-making capital of Leicester, Pantherella is famed for its well-made dress socks. It remains a brand that only produces socks – always a good sign.


SHOP THE EDIT

All products on this page have been selected by our editorial team, however we may make commission on some products.

DISCLAIMER: We endeavour to always credit the correct original source of every image we use. If you think a credit may be incorrect, please contact us at [email protected].