When it comes to morning dress, there are certain rules that can’t be broken, which actually makes choosing the perfect ensemble quite simple, as there’s less margin for error. Morning dress consists of the morning coat, which is typically cut in black wool, cashmere or cotton, and features a long sweeping tail that should finish at the back of the knees. Charcoal grey, and more recently navy morning coats, are sophisticated alternatives, but these are usually worn with matching trousers, whereas a traditional black morning coat should be worn with cashmere stripe trousers or contrast grey houndstooth or herringbones styles. The third element of morning dress is the waistcoat. Either single- or double-breasted is fine. Finally, the look is finished off with a trio of sartorial additions – those being the tie, pocket square and boutonnière. Shoes should be highly polished black Oxfords.
While the elements of morning dress are pretty straightforward, there are a number of considerations. Primary among them is the wedding venue and time of year. Morning dress is the most formal genre of menswear and is best suited to church weddings or those in grand venues. That said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with wearing morning dress for a less formal setting, as it will only help to elevate the sense of occasion. Time of year will almost certainly influence your choice of fabric. A heavier wool cloth will not be as temperature-friendly as a finer cashmere or a lightweight cotton for a summer wedding, but will be the perfect choice for cooler months. The bride’s dress shouldn’t affect your choice, but you do need to be careful about your choice of waistcoat, tie and pocket square to ensure you don’t clash. Muted pastel tones such as champagne, sky blue, sage green or dusty pink are great options.