A Style Director's Rules For Dressing Well
You’re arriving at work in daylight now. Hopefully you’re leaving in it too. That calls not just for celebration, but for sartorial innovation too. Here, Mr Porter style director Ben Browne chats us through his personal style and showcases three on-point office outfits for the season ahead.
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Talk us through each look, the inspiration, and who might wear it…
Look one is a dress-down suit look by Saman Amel, a brilliant modern tailor based in Stockholm, Sweden. They're one of my favourite tailoring brands. Typically, I don't really wear ties with suits, so it's styled with a loose layered shirt by Auralee with a simple T-shirt from Mr P. It's easy to layer, very comfortable and relaxed. The suit is a beautiful blend of wool, silk and linen, so it's got an amazing texture to it, and I think chocolate brown is an overlooked shade for tailoring. This look is for anyone who wants to dress up but not look like they're going to work, necessarily.
The centrepiece of the second look is definitely the chore workwear jacket from Drake's in a lovely kind of cotton twill with a suede corduroy collar. It's just a nice cream and brown. No one does reinterpretations of traditional menswear better than Drake’s, and this is a piece that will only get better with age. Beneath that is a combination of Our Legacy and Mr P. I love wearing charcoal as it feels quite smart while being casual. The look is finished with a pair of penny loafers from Tom Ford, whose footwear is underappreciated. That extra bit of shine just lifts everything a little bit, because the trouser and top are pretty casual.
The third look makes use of a leather jacket by Stòffa. This jacket is unbelievably soft with a slight touch of formality to it, making it good for work. Beneath, I'm experimenting with pastels, which I feel is a gentle way into colour. The NN.07 light-grey worsted-wool trousers are brilliant, and from another brand that every man needs on his radar – great value for money and working with great people. The white sneakers are very simple, elegant and good for work. The look is finished with a Loewe tote bag, which is understated, yet the shape itself is quite iconic.
What’s the key to dressing for the office in the heat?
It's quite a difficult time to dress for the office, so the key is effective layering, i.e. a t-shirt, shirt and jacket – giving you the option to dress down to a T-shirt when it gets hot. Go for sensible materials like linen, cotton and lightweight wools. Roomier cuts are also going to allow you to stay cooler. So just be mindful of layers, materials and silhouettes.
Are there any new rules for office dressing to know?
Not enough people are breaking up suits and wearing odd jackets and trousers, particularly when wearing something formal or if they work in the City or a corporate job. For those in creative industries, the new rules are… why not try and find some joy in the clothes you wear? I think that should be a trend. There is only one rule to heed. Make sure that you never, ever wear open-toe shoes, flip flops or slides. No one should ever see a colleague's toes.
How would you describe your personal style?
It’s a lot more casual than it used to be. To use that awful phrase, it’s quite ‘high-low’ – somewhere between formal and contemporary.
What are your key brands?
Our Legacy is a brand I’m wearing a lot now. I like formal shoes like Morjas. I love Auralee and Studio Nicholson. Brands that have substance, essentially. They have personality, and there's a simplicity to them. I don't like overcomplex, overly designed clothing. My style is simple and pretty reserved. It has quite a restrained colour palette, and is understated.
Is there anyone who influences your style?
I get inspired by seasonal collections from brands, and by fashion weeks, but I don't have a style icon. I do appreciate the dress sense of some celebrities – the usual suspects, Jacob Elordi and Harry Styles.
Anything else that influences your style?
The 90s are a source of inspiration: good denim, nice vintage washes, and good leather. It was all quite casual and comfortable, and I think that's what I like to wear – quite loose-fitting clothes.
How has your sense of style changed over the years?
When I worked for The Rake, I would wear three-piece suits, shirts with tab collars, perfectly placed dimples and ties, and it was all extremely over the top. It was a different me. I took myself very seriously, and I thought I was the shit because I was wearing a suit. That time did really open my eyes to what luxury truly is, rather than what it's perceived as. Now, my style is very loose and unbuttoned, and comfort is more important. I grew up and realised that I don't need to dress a certain way to be thought of in a certain way. I thought wearing a suit would make people take me seriously, but actually it's your hard work and it's your personality, rather than what you're wearing that counts.
Do you play into trends?
Not really. I obviously have to keep an eye on them, but I wouldn't say I've jumped on them personally. I might have subconsciously, but I haven't consciously adopted something just because it's trending.
Where are you getting your investment pieces from?
I invest in shoe brands like Edward Green and Crockett & Jones – those proper English, Goodyear-welted shoemakers. Those are investments that will last 20, 30, 40 years. My pair of Edward Green Duke loafers have been my best investment. I've had them re-soled twice. They are the most comfortable shoes I wear.
I also wear my military nylon khaki bomber jacket by Dries Van Noten more than anything. There's a zipper that goes all the way down the sleeve. It's really cool. It’s not a fashion piece, but it's not too easily recognisable either. There’s also this Studio Nicholson leather jacket I’m wearing today. You can wear it pretty much all year, certainly three seasons. It’s giving me the best return at the moment.
One brand that’s impressing you right now?
Auralee from Tokyo. I don't wear a lot of colour, and that brand instils the confidence in me to want to wear colour. Their combinations are great, and the way they colour-block is quite unexpected. All the fabrics are exclusive to them, so there's a real level of craft there that appeals to me.
Where do you go for your tailoring?
J. Mueser from New York. I wore it today in the shoot and I plan on wearing the brand for my wedding day. It brings quite a playful approach to tailoring. It doesn't feel stuffy or restricting, and it's all made in southern Italy. Saman Amel from Stockholm makes the sleekest, finest tailoring that I've seen in a ready-to-wear context. Those two would make any man look good.
And an under-the-radar brand you rate?
Carter Young. I met him in Paris in January. He's such a cool guy. He's got a youthful eye for classic silhouettes, workwear and tailoring. People have been wearing basically the same style of jacket and trouser for 100 years, so he brings a fresh, younger eye to those classics by using different hardware and pocketing details, for example. I think buying into brands is also about the people behind them. Because he was such a nice guy, I believed in the product.
How do you incorporate watches into your style?
I have a steel Rolex Datejust which I got 12 years ago. It's constantly on – I've only got one watch. If I were to get another one, I'd get a time-only dress watch, like a Cartier or Piaget. A square or rectangular dial, no markings on the dial, just two hands.
Go-to fragrance?
Today I'm wearing Vintage Vanilla Eau de Parfum by Horace, a French grooming brand that only releases three scents a year. It's sweet but not overpowering, and the bottle is compact and fits well in a washbag. Arguably the most mature fragrance going is Acqua Di Parma’s classic Colonia. I was in Florence last weekend and visited Santa Maria Novella, which is the oldest pharmacy perfumery in the world, founded in 1221 by Florentine monks. Its fragrances use just botanical sources from the garden. I bought the Tabacco Toscano Eau de Cologne which is quite punchy. Old-school Truefitt & Hill is a really nice brand too.
What's the item you’re wearing most at the moment?
The Third Cut jeans by Our Legacy. I've got it in black and a vintage-wash blue. And they're just really straight fitting, comfortable, easy to wear. I wear a lot more denim now than I used to like five years ago. Five years ago I would wear pleated trousers with a cuff with a loafer, and it's just way too much. Whereas these I can wear with driving shoes, boat shoes, and loafers. It's a real staple workhorse. If you're looking for a pair of jeans that are going to work hard for you and give you a good return, this is the pair.
What’s your favourite store in London?
The Anderson & Sheppard haberdashery. It's so peaceful there. I feel so relaxed. It's so well merchandised, so well styled, and the quality of the product doesn't get much better. At the other end of the spectrum, I love Couverture & The Garbstore just off Portobello Road. They've got a lovely homeware section, and menswear in the basement with really nice brands. Great Japanese denim, streetwear brands like Stussy, but also heritage footwear brands like Paraboot. There’s a really nice mix, plus their own line. I like it when stores have their own line, as it becomes a synthesis of everything they love – it usually comes out quite nicely.
How did you get into styling?
Quite accidentally. I was a writer before I was a stylist. I started writing 13 years ago for magazines, and then in 2020 during Covid, I pivoted. I put all my energy into styling and, slowly but surely, built up a portfolio of editorial, commercial and talent work. I think I’ve really found my calling because it comes much more naturally to me than writing.
Any niche fashion tips we should all know?
If you have fine leather shoes, don’t wear them on consecutive days. There’s so much moisture in your feet, and you don't want the leather to absorb the moisture again and again. You need the leather to dry out, which is why you put in wooden shoe trees to draw in all that moisture.
Final one. You're going for dinner tonight. Where are you going and what are you wearing?
Dorian because it's my favourite restaurant in the world. It's in Notting Hill, it's got a Michelin star, it's the most I've ever spent on dinner, and the steak melts in your mouth. I don't know how they do it. They are geniuses. Apparently David Beckham, who lives nearby, often gets one of the chefs from Dorian to go to his house to make a steak there. It's nice to dress up for dinner, so I’ll be wearing a double-breasted suit by J Mueser with fine knitwear from John Smedley underneath. I’ll go for a tonal look, dark chocolatey brown. Nice, elegant, but not overly dressed.
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