In the 1920s, college football player Ben Russell Jr had two things: a desire for a breathable cotton jersey to play football in and a dad who was the founder of Russell Athletic. Under these conditions, the sweatshirt was born. Cotton replaced wool as a more breathable fabric, a ribbed ‘V’ helped the neck to keep its shape and absorb sweat, while ribbed cuffs meant arm sleeves that were pushed up would stay in place. 

After WWII, American cultural dominance ignited and actors like James Dean in A Rebel Without A Cause imbued the grey sweatshirt with a working-class, rebellious feel. During the 1980s and 90s, hip-hop stars slapped on slogans, while designers like Calvin Klein, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood played with form to give the grey sweatshirt a creative edge. And yet, it remains and always will be a grassroots staple of menswear.

If you want the classic sportswear feel, go to Champion, Carhartt, American Vintage or Mr P. For an authentic commitment to traditional construction technique and premium fabric, head to Merz B. Schwanen, Pherrow’s, Sunspel or The Real McCoy’s. And if you want high-street affordability, try Weekday, ARKET or Abercrombie.