Why You Should Dress More Like An Italian
Italian menswear style isn't about perfection – it's about ease. In an increasingly casual world, and in a year when the heatwaves are coming in waves, that feels like a winning philosophy. Anglo-Italian founder Jake Grantham and Natalino founder Nathan Lee are two of London’s leading exponents of its softer lines and lighter fabrics. We spoke to them about why the Italian approach to tailoring might be the most elegant way to meet the demands of contemporary life.
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Italian style feels like something we recognise when we see it, but can be hard to define. What does it mean to you?
NATHAN: For me, it's about a sense of ease. It's not overly studied. It's not too perfect. It's not too precious. You know, it’s about wrinkles in linen jackets. There are wrinkles in the trousers too, and the shoes are a bit scuffed. But they are all good pieces, and they fit well, and the person wearing them looks really elegant but easy.
JAKE: Italian men commit to their look. They wear it all day long, and they don't become pedantic about it. I think it’s really nice that dressing up is more prevalent there. Go to Milan and you’ll see guys in blue suits, guys in blue striped shirts and guys in ties. There is a subtle art to that kind of dressing.
Any style icons who exemplify this approach?
JAKE: Alan Whicker got me into all this. I'd watch old footage of him in Venice in his 80s, wearing Dougie Hayward suits that were Savile Row but softer. He looks as good today as he did back then. There's a timelessness to dressing this way. You don’t take big swings, because this kind of style is a pendulum that swings gently and slowly. I don't follow trends, and I always think this sits outside fashion. And I love that, that this is more about craft than it is about the superficial stuff.
NATHAN: Gianni Agnelli is basically the godfather of it all. Steve McQueen's another absolute classic. He just never looked like he cared that much or was too studied.
How did you learn to appreciate the Italian approach?
JAKE: I got my education at the Armoury in Hong Kong, then I lived with Antonio Liverano, a legendary tailor in Florence, for three months. We were very close, and I learnt a lot from him. I interviewed him once for the Armoury magazine, and I asked him about the Tuscan jacket he made. All he’d say to me was, ‘I make a Tuscan jacket.’ He had nothing else to say about it. I think that’s quite beautiful, and very Italian. There’s an appreciation of a culture, and that you are just a part of that. There’s a belief in lineage that you also see in the food culture and the design culture there, an acknowledgement of what’s come before.
NATHAN: I started in investment banking, and I was getting suits made in Naples because it was so hard to find this style of tailoring in London back in 2013. I'd put on these Neapolitan jackets and think, 'Wow, this is incredible.' You look refined but easy.
Why is this style having a moment now?
NATHAN: I feel like these days, if you look like you thought about what you’re wearing too hard, it's really quite unattractive. I feel like the idea now is to look like you just rolled out of bed and happen to be well put together. Work from home being more of a thing, suiting being less important – we get lawyers and bankers who don't wear suits anymore but still want to look presentable. So they're buying odd trousers, odd jackets, button-down shirts instead of navy suits. The trend is definitely going to continue – even more casual, even softer stuff.
What makes Italian tailoring different from British?
JAKE: I almost can't keep a straight face when I put on British tailoring. I just don't look like me in it. With all that military stuff and that strict way of dressing, it’s quite hard when you're on the tube next to people wearing T-shirts and shorts. But when you rip out all the gubbins, there’s an ease that I think is appropriate in 2025.
NATHAN: English tailoring is about structured shoulders and very sharp lines – by nature, that does not look like it's being done effortlessly. Whereas the Italian softness, shoulders that just fall off, sleeves that are kind of rumpled – that’s effortlessness.
Are there regional differences within Italian tailoring?
NATHAN: The biggest contrast would be Milan versus Naples. Milan being the financial centre, it's quite similar to English tailoring – they've got a little bit more padding, it's smarter, more business-like. Naples is much more casual. Their suits are often without padding, really soft, with a spalla camicia shoulder that's got a slight wrinkling. Sleeves are more generous – a wider sleeve makes it look more informal.
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Tell us about some of your signature pieces…
JAKE: Tailoring is our really strong suit – we do all our own fabric development, going to mills in Italy or England to produce our own finishes. We also launched jeans really early doors, which was very unusual at the time. These are tailoring-friendly jeans that hit the sweet spot between Levi's ruggedness and stretchy stuff.
NATHAN: It's the tailoring. This season I've been wearing wool seersucker a lot. We use 100% wool rather than conventional cotton which can feel quite restrictive and uncomfortable after a day of walking around. Whereas the wool just breaks nicely, it's more breathable. We've also developed a slightly wider trouser which is really helpful in the summer – we got a lot of feedback from guys looking for something slightly roomier.
How do you both respect Italian tradition while being British brands?
NATHAN: We work with really local Italian factories. I’ve learnt to speak Italian because our factory in Naples has no one who can speak English. They don't have a website, they don't hunt for English-speaking customers, and we're their only non-Italian customer.
JAKE: If I wasn't making Anglo the right way, I'd go find something else to do in my life, because I feel that strongly that you should do it the right way, with people who've given so much to this for generations. It's about supporting livelihoods and the environment in which you're developing products.
Who are your customers?
NATHAN: It’s guys in their early 20s to early 40s who are already into this look. At the younger end, you've also got guys who want education – they come in and ask questions. At the other end, we have older guys who have loads of bespoke already, but don't want to spend £2,000 on a jacket they just want to wear on a weekend.
JAKE: Our customer is an aficionado. They're going to get their fragrances from a fragrance house, and their sunglasses from a sunglasses brand. That's why our shoe collaboration had to be Crockett & Jones or nothing, for example, because Crockett & Jones is where they get their shoes from.
How do you want those customers to feel when they put on your clothes?
NATHAN: I want them to look and feel good. Clothes always need to flatter the person wearing them. I don't ever want to look like I'm awkward or uncomfortable, or feel like I'm wearing a costume. I just want to chuck something on with a t-shirt or a pair of jeans, and if it looks good, then that's what I'm happy with.
And how about one final tip from the Italians about staying cool in hot weather?
NATHAN: I always carry a fan because I run quite hot. I have to buy it from Italy – the best fans come from Italy because all the fans here are tiny, small ones in little flimsy fabrics that don't produce enough air. In Italy, because it's hot, they've just got better fans.
Check out AngloItalian.com & Natalino.co for more.
And here’s our edit of the best Italian-style pieces currently on sale in London...
All products on this page have been selected by our editorial team, however we may make commission on some products.
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