Luxury Watch Trends To Look Out For
Coloured Dials & Faces
Bruce Andrews, head of luxury watches at Beaverbrooks
What’s the trend?
“Coloured dials have quickly become one of the biggest watch trends this year and will continue to be a major contender. We typically see black, white or mother-of-pearl dials, but now brands are starting to expand and experiment with bright colour palettes in an array of shades and finishes. They offer a way to add a personal touch to your timepiece without straying too far from your comfort zone – making it a universally appealing trend for any watch enthusiast.”
Where has it come from?
“It often only takes one brand to introduce something different, but here I’d say one of the main drivers has been Watches and Wonders in Geneva – one of the world’s biggest watch shows. This is when we get a first look at the latest innovations, launches and developments in the luxury watch space where brands really set the tone for all the trends to come. I saw some incredible timepieces at the show this year.”
Who’s doing it?
“There are so many brands taking the plunge into bold, bright colours. Omega’s Aqua Terra Shades range has gained a lot of traction for its beautiful blend of earthy tones lacquered onto the dials.”
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Titanium Takes Over
Nick Hickey, MD of Luxe Watches
What’s the trend?
“Titanium is definitely making its name as a luxury option. The use of titanium as a lightweight material makes sense – it’s stronger but up to four times lighter than steel, and it’s also considerably resistant to corrosion, making it a great option for luxury wristwear.”
Where has it come from?
“Among luxury watchmakers, titanium is normally considered for case material – not for an overall watch. It can be scratched easily and it can be difficult to work on with machinery. It’s probably coming into its own now because steel is becoming more expensive and difficult to source. Watchmakers are taking on the challenge of incorporating new materials and it’s great to see metal being embraced by lots of world-renowned brands this year.”
Who’s doing it?
“From Seiko right through to Patek Philippe, it’s big news. As you’d expect, Rolex is onto the titanium trend. Its new Yacht Master 42 is considered to be its first ‘wearable’ full, grade 5 titanium watch. It’s by far my favourite Rolex release to date. The case – which is water resistant to 100m – matches the brushed bracelet and looks incredibly smart with its matte black ceramic insert surrounding the dial.”
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Cool Complications
Kristian Haagen, watch expert, author & photo-journalist
What’s the trend?
“‘Complications’ are any functions on a watch that go beyond simply telling the time – for example, calendars, alarms and date displays. I’ve started to notice brands weaving unique and quite elegant complications into their dial layouts recently – all of which look subtle and extremely luxe.”
Where has it come from?
“Brands are leaning into this kind of innovation as a display of craftsmanship. While many in the luxury watch sector have already proven their fantastic skills, the detail and subtlety is the key. Delicate and discreet complications are a way to celebrate exquisite watchmaking but with a sense of simplicity still weaved in.”
Who’s doing it?
“The Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante is a great example. You wouldn’t immediately notice how unique its functionality is because its dial layout reveals little, but the innovations are seriously impressive. Similarly, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time hides its 24-hour display and secondary time zone at first glance. H Moser & Cie also does a stealthy job with its Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, where a short central hand indicates the months of the year. So elegant, so discreet.”
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The 90s Are Back
Andrew Morgan, in-house watch expert at Watchfinder
What’s the trend?
“Nineties watch styles are growing in popularity sooner than most of us expected. They are smaller, subtler and classier after a decade of decadence. At the same time, we are seeing a resurgence of yellow gold – for a while it was all about white gold, platinum and rose gold.”
Where has it come from?
“We were enjoying a 70s revival in the watch space for a while but now – skipping the 80s which were a bit too showy – we've fast-forwarded to the 90s. These watches are elegant and beautifully made by the greatest watchmakers around. These styles feel apt because ostentatious wealth isn’t as ‘in’ as it used to be – we’re seeing reductions in size and grandeur too.”
Who’s doing it?
“Tudor very recently released a small 37mm dive watch. As the oldest watchmaker to continuously trade, Blancpain is another high-end great with smaller steel watches from the 90s – and at relatively attainable rates (around £3k). Yellow gold styles have been making more of an appearance at Rolex and Vacheron Constantin. The Patek Philippe Calatrava is a classic and simple 90s style that reaches a new level of refinement in yellow gold. The Hermès Arceau is a 90s watch at first glance – but with a few little touches that give it a character all of its own. Finally, Audemars Piguet’s discontinued classic collection features a staple of 90s design – roman numerals.”
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