How do you define your style, Frankie?

The word I’d use is ‘grown-up’. My style is built around pieces that make you feel manly, and by that I mean pieces that have stood the test of time. For this shoot, it’s all about predominantly straight-leg trousers with mostly loafers. I was looking for something that makes you feel like you have thought about what you're wearing, and that you're representing yourself well. We switched it up with some trainers, but generally straight-leg trousers, a big overcoat and some smart shoes is what I feel comfortable in at this time of year. 

Who or what influences your style? 

I’m a little bit preppy, a little bit country. Being from Cheltenham, my horse racing work influences me a little bit. I'm normally looking at incorporating a Barbour or a waxed jacket. I dress fairly English, in terms of classic countryside, but then throw in some Italian summer tailoring, which is essentially to say, I like to dress like I've got loads of money! But these are some of the coolest men out there. Picture a guy in an old Land Rover with a waxed Barbour and a flat cap on. I think that's a really cool look. Equally, an old Italian gent in a relaxed sports coat in the summer with a shirt or a tie and some high-waisted trousers. 

How has your sense of style developed through the years? 

I definitely went through a phase of dressing like a 40-year-old man at 19 years old. We'd have chinos, boots, a shirt and a blazer to go to the pub. That's what we used to think was cool. After that, I used to manage a gym, so I was in trainers all the time, quarter zips and shorts. Now, for my Racing TV work, I’ve started wearing more suits. When you get used to dressing up like that, you notice how it makes you feel better, and then you start to make an effort in your day-to-day life. 

Do you play into trends? 

I've tried trends, but I definitely feel uncomfortable wearing anything too trendy. I've bought stuff, worn it a couple of times, then it's just not been worn again. By contrast, straight-leg trousers, a good solid overcoat, a wool crewneck or cashmere sweatshirt, a good loafer or pair of boots, those things have always looked good. They're not necessarily ultra-fashionable, but if they fit you and you put them together well, you will always look smart.  

Where do you think your current style could evolve next? 

The evolution is probably that if I make more money, I’d buy a higher quality of the same thing. 

Where are you buying your investment pieces from? 

Crockett & Jones. I’m going to be spending my money next on leather goods. There's a bespoke leather shop on Chiltern Street, Cromford Leather, where you know it's been made well. They make the jackets downstairs. Anything like that is really cool to me.  

Where do you get your suits?  

Oliver Brown, made to measure. The service is awesome. They’ve got bespoke, made-to-measure or off-the-shelf, but it’s seeing a lot more business in made-to-measure and rightly so, because it's basically bespoke, but more affordable. One of the best pieces in my wardrobe is the made-to-measure morning suit I got for Ascot last year. I picked the waistcoat, the lapels and the material. I've never worn anything that fitted me better. When I wear that, I feel the business. 

What do you look for in a watch? 

Anything that doesn't shout, but is cool. I love a leather strap, a relatively small dial, something well-made, and ideally something with a bit of heritage behind it. Breitling does some really nice models like the Premier B09 Chronograph 40. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve is very nice. Going completely against what I've been saying about being understated, I also think a gold Reverso is cool.

You mentioned Crockett & Jones. Any other footwear brands you turn to?  

My Loake boots are top-notch. John Foster, too. It’s a Paris-based brand with just two shops to its name.  

How did your own brand, Franc James, come into being? 

I remember being 17 or 18, going to the races, and loving the style of the racehorse trainers, like Nicky Henderson and William Owens. They would wear nice Hermès ties in the parade room with a v-neck, overcoat, suit and maybe a trilby hat. When I came back to horse racing and started wearing ties, I started wanting to buy more of my own, and realised that a tie shop isn't a thing really. I thought, well, what if was a space where people can simply shop for a nice tie? Everyone asks, ‘Did you start with ties because you want to become like Ralph Lauren?’ I didn't give it any thought. I just wanted to experiment with making nice ties.  

How do you style ties?  

I'm still quite classic. I don't think I will wear a tie unless I'm in a jacket or something smart enough to warrant the tie. I also struggle to wear a tie without a good collar – it really alters how your tie looks.  When I know the shirt, blazer or suit I’m going to wear, then I’ll get the tie to go with it last. 

Best shirts to wear with ties? 

Charles Tyrwhitt do the best off-the-shelf shirts, and they’re reasonably priced as well.  

What knot do you go for?  

A four-in-hand knot with a small dimple down to the belt line, and nearly always with a jacket. 

Tell us about your most-worn items of clothing at the moment… 

I have a new wax jacket from N Peal, which I've barely taken off. I just love the shape of it. It feels like it could reach into a shooting jacket – big, big pockets, it’s mid-thigh, and it is very cosy to wear. Black jeans from AllSaints. I never used to wear jeans, then this year I've started wearing them all the time. I think the trick I was missing was a darker colour. And finally, a long-sleeve polo from Oliver Spencer is a go-to.  

Any under-the-radar brands that you recommend? 

Kotn – I still think that's the comfiest t-shirt I own. Berteil is pushing the boundaries of an older gentleman’s style. I could buy most things it makes – great sport coats, great macs, accessories, scarves, ties, and even caps. It’s semi-country, but really smart. A top-notch brand, and I think they have one store in Paris. 

Favourite store in London? 

It's basic, but Massimo Dutti. I've never been let down by Massimo. I've shopped there for almost ten years.  

Finally, Frankie, you're going out for dinner tonight. Where are you going and what are you wearing? 

There's a wine bar in Islington called Provisions that has a Michelin-starred chef on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. I’m going there. Clothes wise, I don't wear many colours on a date night, which might be subconsciously not wanting to peacock and be misjudged. I like looking smart, grown-up and as if I take myself seriously. I don't like too much attention being drawn to me, which is so contradictory, considering what I do. But I like to look good without looking like I'm showing off, so it’s chelsea boots, black jeans, a rollneck or crewneck, then a nice coat over the top.  

Follow @FrankieFoster3 on Instagram. 

Photography: Bea Granados